2007 chevy trailblazer blower motor resistor

Hello all. I have a 2013 Dodge Dart SXT (base, non-turbo version). Spring of 2022 I was having AC problems and had to replace the blower motor and the resistor. Everything has worked fine. Fast forward to this past Sunday. I have the AC on the lowest setting and it suddenly kicks into full blast and I can't change it. I can turn the AC on and off but the blower continues to blow at full power, regardless of setting (if the AC is engaged it blows cold; if it is not engaged it just blows). I have the manual controls for the AC.
Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this? Thanks!

Hello everyone! BigHedDjango here, tunes for this week to help you out.
Weekly photo... challenge! Spot the drivatar: https://i.imgur.com/54vL4Br.jpg
Photo by Optochip. Check out more of their photos in-game!
All feedback on tunes is appreciated - good or bad. Specially when tunes are bad. At the end of the day I am just the mechanic and you guys are the racers. Do not hesitate irrespective of your tuning knowledge or racing skills!
Tuning method: 1. Stock look - stock wheel rims, default wheel rim sizes, no aero (unless absolutely necessary for handling and stability) 2. Max performance with max handling possible 3. All cars tuned vs. Unbeatable AI on championship tracks in seasonal weather. However! Unbeatable AI is broken and bugged. Not every car can win 7/10 random races vs Unbeatable AI without abusing rewind/restart. Very few cars can beat it consistently. Hope it gets fixed soon one day... 4. Bodykit only used if it does not ruin performance

___ 

FORZATHON WEEKLY CHALLENGE - No Compromise

2017 Ram 2500 Power Wagon * Tune - 447 065 838 * Meta car; Overlanding build - front grill and lights, roof lights, rear canopy; Custom rims; High profile tires * Malpais trailblazer south-west of main festival site is easiest * Event Lab BP - Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926

___ 

TRIAL - Ooh... Barranca

Dirt Racing - Retro Rally - C 600

NOTE: Try to block and slow down AI and help teammates in order to win. One player on the team needs to take at least P3 and slow down the AI for a guaranteed win

1980 Renault 5 Turbo * Tune - 109 883 211 * Stock engine
1999 Ford Racing Puma * Tune - 133 030 101 * Stock engine
1990 Nissan Pulsar GTI-R * Tune - 148 223 582
1992 Toyota Celica GT-Four RC ST185 * Tune - 638 462 263 * Stock engine; True Purist
1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth * Tune - 288 036 724 * Stock Engine; True Purist; v2 - minor rebuild, added ARBs, same powetorque, 4 lbs lighter, smoother

___ 

EVENT LAB - By Land, Air, And Sea

Offroad Capable - A 800

2016 Jeep Trailcat * Tune - 108 275 805

___ 

SEASONAL PR STUNTS

Anything Goes - S2 998

Danger Sign - Salto De Rio

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 178 075 164 (PR only tune) * Start ~550 yards south-west on the dirt road, coast through left hander

Speed Trap - Dust Bowl

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 178 075 164 (PR only tune) * Start ~500 yards north on dirt road (near intersection). Full throttle to speed trap

(Rally Adventure) Speed Zone - Tierras Verdes

1998 Mercedes-Benz AMG CLK GTR * Tune - 788 818 587 (Tune by KapienPL; Full aero; Anti-lag) * Start ~400 yards from north gate, just inside hairpin. DO NOT TRY AND BE FAST, you will fail. Braking + feathered throttle is key. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

(Hot Wheels) Danger Sign - Canyon Fire

2019 Rimac Concept Two * Tune - 540 241 336 (Full aero tune; Custom rims) * Start 0.6 miles from the south-west, easy peasy

___ 

NOTE: All Championships are locked to Highly Skilled difficulty

CHAMPIONSHIP 1 - Rally Good Time

Dirt Racing - Rally Monsters - A 800

2007 Peugeot 207 Super 2000 * Tune - 841 509 187 * Biggest rear rims; Stock engine
1991 Hoonigan GYMKHANA 10 Ford Escort Cosworth Group A * Tune - 544 505 270 * What Unbeatable AI? 7 gears, 6 usable
1994 Hoonigan Ford Escort RS Cosworth "Cossie V2" * Tune - 796 319 780 * Good handling but low top speed; Purist; Stock engine only
1984 Opel Manta 400 * Tune - 396 029 853 * Innate suspension problems, cannot be tuned out completely

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 2 - Ready For Liftoff

Cross Country - Unlimited Offroad - A 800

2016 Jeep Trailcat * Tune - 108 275 805 * Front bumper; Roof lightbar; Rear tire rack; Stock engine; Purist; v5 - full rebuild CC tune
2016 RJ Anderson #37 Polaris RZR-Rockstar Energy Pro 2 Truck * Tune - 576 118 022 * Easy Unbeatable wins; Stock engine
2014 Local Motors Rally Fighter * Tune - 173 263 258
2017 Ford #25 "Brocky" Ultra4 Bronco RTR * Tune - 742 246 887 * Lacks top speed and thus accel

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 3 - Time Warp (Rally Adventure)

Road Rally - Retro Saloons - B 700

1987 Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500 * Tune - 750 330 861 * Good handling
1991 BMW M3 * Tune - 631 335 680 * Very high top speed; Tuned for Hot Wheels Hazard races
2005 BMW M3 * Tune - 826 002 980 * Tiny bit of on-throttle understeer
1997 BMW M3 * Tune - 106 781 390 * Stock engine
1995 BMW M5 * Tune - 166 342 640

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 4 - Super Loops (Hot Wheels)

Speed - Modern Supercars - S1 900

2020 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe * Tune - 487 413 997 * StreetHunter body kit; Smooth and grippy; Very good
2016 Audi R8 V10 Plus * Tune - 172 331 534 * Fast; Smooth enough; Stock engine
2017 Ford GT * Tune - 553 697 179 (Rally suspension, slightly less understeer) * Tune - 125 213 566 (Race suspension) * Decent grip; Superb braking; Tiny bit of high speed understeer, limited by tuning
2009 Ferrari 458 Italia * Tune - 849 848 527 * S2 class top speed
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 255 942 362 * Fast; Stock engine
2012 Nissan GT-R Black Edition (R35) * Tune - 134 417 721 * Good accel; Liberty Walk body kit and rear wing; Max grip and handling possible; Dry roads only; Stock engine only

___ 

EVENT LAB BLUEPRINTS!

Easy Win Road Sprint - 696 659 852
Easy Win Road Circuit - 177 632 200
Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926
Easy Win Dirt Scramble - 135 436 707
Easy Win Cross Country Sprint - 114 199 871
Easy Win Cross Country Circuit - 181 401 852
Easy Win Street Scene Sprint - 134 229 457
Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

HORIZON 4 AND 5 TUNES ARCHIVE THREAD!

https://www.reddit.com/useBigHeadDjango/comments/r4ptt6/forza_horizon_4_and_horizon_5_tunes_archive/

___ 

Thank you to everyone for your downloads, uses, likes, follows, shares and feedback! Check my in-game profile for more tunes. You can check my reddit profile for more content
📸 Also don't stop yourself from checking out my photos on the creative hub. Wow! What beautiful photos! 📸
Don't hesitate to ask if you need any help!
🛠️ I am open to requests for cars you might want me to tune! It would also help me understand FH5 tuning better. So let me know the car and class and I'd get back to you! 🛠️

___ 

Have a great week! 🥳

Hello everyone! BigHedDjango here, tunes for this week to help you out.
Weekly photo... challenge! Spot the drivatar: https://i.imgur.com/54vL4Br.jpg
Photo by Optochip. Check out more of their photos in-game!
All feedback on tunes is appreciated - good or bad. Specially when tunes are bad. At the end of the day I am just the mechanic and you guys are the racers. Do not hesitate irrespective of your tuning knowledge or racing skills!
Tuning method: 1. Stock look - stock wheel rims, default wheel rim sizes, no aero (unless absolutely necessary for handling and stability) 2. Max performance with max handling possible 3. All cars tuned vs. Unbeatable AI on championship tracks in seasonal weather. However! Unbeatable AI is broken and bugged. Not every car can win 7/10 random races vs Unbeatable AI without abusing rewind/restart. Very few cars can beat it consistently. Hope it gets fixed soon one day... 4. Bodykit only used if it does not ruin performance

___ 

FORZATHON WEEKLY CHALLENGE - No Compromise

2017 Ram 2500 Power Wagon * Tune - 447 065 838 * Meta car; Overlanding build - front grill and lights, roof lights, rear canopy; Custom rims; High profile tires * Malpais trailblazer south-west of main festival site is easiest * Event Lab BP - Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926

___ 

TRIAL - Ooh... Barranca

Dirt Racing - Retro Rally - C 600

NOTE: Try to block and slow down AI and help teammates in order to win. One player on the team needs to take at least P3 and slow down the AI for a guaranteed win

1980 Renault 5 Turbo * Tune - 109 883 211 * Stock engine
1999 Ford Racing Puma * Tune - 133 030 101 * Stock engine
1990 Nissan Pulsar GTI-R * Tune - 148 223 582
1992 Toyota Celica GT-Four RC ST185 * Tune - 638 462 263 * Stock engine; True Purist
1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth * Tune - 288 036 724 * Stock Engine; True Purist; v2 - minor rebuild, added ARBs, same powetorque, 4 lbs lighter, smoother

___ 

EVENT LAB - By Land, Air, And Sea

Offroad Capable - A 800

2016 Jeep Trailcat * Tune - 108 275 805

___ 

SEASONAL PR STUNTS

Anything Goes - S2 998

Danger Sign - Salto De Rio

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 178 075 164 (PR only tune) * Start ~550 yards south-west on the dirt road, coast through left hander

Speed Trap - Dust Bowl

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 178 075 164 (PR only tune) * Start ~500 yards north on dirt road (near intersection). Full throttle to speed trap

(Rally Adventure) Speed Zone - Tierras Verdes

1998 Mercedes-Benz AMG CLK GTR * Tune - 788 818 587 (Tune by KapienPL; Full aero; Anti-lag) * Start ~400 yards from north gate, just inside hairpin. DO NOT TRY AND BE FAST, you will fail. Braking + feathered throttle is key. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

(Hot Wheels) Danger Sign - Canyon Fire

2019 Rimac Concept Two * Tune - 540 241 336 (Full aero tune; Custom rims) * Start 0.6 miles from the south-west, easy peasy

___ 

NOTE: All Championships are locked to Highly Skilled difficulty

CHAMPIONSHIP 1 - Rally Good Time

Dirt Racing - Rally Monsters - A 800

2007 Peugeot 207 Super 2000 * Tune - 841 509 187 * Biggest rear rims; Stock engine
1991 Hoonigan GYMKHANA 10 Ford Escort Cosworth Group A * Tune - 544 505 270 * What Unbeatable AI? 7 gears, 6 usable
1994 Hoonigan Ford Escort RS Cosworth "Cossie V2" * Tune - 796 319 780 * Good handling but low top speed; Purist; Stock engine only
1984 Opel Manta 400 * Tune - 396 029 853 * Innate suspension problems, cannot be tuned out completely

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 2 - Ready For Liftoff

Cross Country - Unlimited Offroad - A 800

2016 Jeep Trailcat * Tune - 108 275 805 * Front bumper; Roof lightbar; Rear tire rack; Stock engine; Purist; v5 - full rebuild CC tune
2016 RJ Anderson #37 Polaris RZR-Rockstar Energy Pro 2 Truck * Tune - 576 118 022 * Easy Unbeatable wins; Stock engine
2014 Local Motors Rally Fighter * Tune - 173 263 258
2017 Ford #25 "Brocky" Ultra4 Bronco RTR * Tune - 742 246 887 * Lacks top speed and thus accel

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 3 - Time Warp (Rally Adventure)

Road Rally - Retro Saloons - B 700

1987 Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500 * Tune - 750 330 861 * Good handling
1991 BMW M3 * Tune - 631 335 680 * Very high top speed; Tuned for Hot Wheels Hazard races
2005 BMW M3 * Tune - 826 002 980 * Tiny bit of on-throttle understeer
1997 BMW M3 * Tune - 106 781 390 * Stock engine
1995 BMW M5 * Tune - 166 342 640

___ 

CHAMPIONSHIP 4 - Super Loops (Hot Wheels)

Speed - Modern Supercars - S1 900

2020 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe * Tune - 487 413 997 * StreetHunter body kit; Smooth and grippy; Very good
2016 Audi R8 V10 Plus * Tune - 172 331 534 * Fast; Smooth enough; Stock engine
2017 Ford GT * Tune - 553 697 179 (Rally suspension, slightly less understeer) * Tune - 125 213 566 (Race suspension) * Decent grip; Superb braking; Tiny bit of high speed understeer, limited by tuning
2009 Ferrari 458 Italia * Tune - 849 848 527 * S2 class top speed
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 255 942 362 * Fast; Stock engine
2012 Nissan GT-R Black Edition (R35) * Tune - 134 417 721 * Good accel; Liberty Walk body kit and rear wing; Max grip and handling possible; Dry roads only; Stock engine only

___ 

EVENT LAB BLUEPRINTS!

Easy Win Road Sprint - 696 659 852
Easy Win Road Circuit - 177 632 200
Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926
Easy Win Dirt Scramble - 135 436 707
Easy Win Cross Country Sprint - 114 199 871
Easy Win Cross Country Circuit - 181 401 852
Easy Win Street Scene Sprint - 134 229 457
Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

HORIZON 4 AND 5 TUNES ARCHIVE THREAD!

https://www.reddit.com/useBigHeadDjango/comments/r4ptt6/forza_horizon_4_and_horizon_5_tunes_archive/

___ 

Thank you to everyone for your downloads, uses, likes, follows, shares and feedback! Check my in-game profile for more tunes. You can check my reddit profile for more content
📸 Also don't stop yourself from checking out my photos on the creative hub. Wow! What beautiful photos! 📸
Don't hesitate to ask if you need any help!
🛠️ I am open to requests for cars you might want me to tune! It would also help me understand FH5 tuning better. So let me know the car and class and I'd get back to you! 🛠️

___ 

Have a great week! 🥳

ok ive replaced the blower motor resistor, the blower control switch and replaced the motor where do i go from there any help would be well appreciated. it also doesn't have a broken ground by no means its showing a constant voltage no matter what setting i put it on say when i put it on the 2nd knob it will show 11.8v then when i put it on high it shows 12.5v which is plenty to run a 12v motor. i also thought maybe it has a bad ground it does not being i am testing each side of the plug with my meter so im truly lost on what could be next i heard a guy say there was something behind the dash but what is behind the dash that could need replaced not to mention the name of it. any help would be well appreciated so please feel fre

ok ive replaced the blower motor resistor, the blower control switch and replaced the motor where do i go from there any help would be well appreciated. it also doesn't have a broken ground by no means its showing a constant voltage no matter what setting i put it on say when i put it on the 2nd knob it will show 11.8v then when i put it on high it shows 12.5v which is plenty to run a 12v motor. i also thought maybe it has a bad ground it does not being i am testing each side of the plug with my meter so im truly lost on what could be next i heard a guy say there was something behind the dash but what is behind the dash that could need replaced not to mention the name of it. any help would be well appreciated so please feel free to comment

2007 QX56. Front and rear climate control. It's the Wife's daily(and nightly because she's a nurse that's been working the overnight shift for a while).
We bought the car about a month ago. Used, with 75k actually driven on it. After we bought it, the front climate control stopped working(for her. I've yet to have it happen while I'm driving it). So I scanned the car, no codes in the HVAC system, but she's getting no heat or AC in the front. The rear works fine.
My initial thought was front resistor, as she gets nothing from any speed. Figured I'd get a blower motor too, just to be safe.
I put the new resistor in, noticing it's a little smaller than the one I took out and it's only got 4 plates, instead of 5(which is what the one I took out had). Didn't think much of it until I tried to plug it in. The new resistor had flat blades electrical prongs, instead of the edged prongs from the original, so the connector wouldn't go in. Obviously.
TTYL: this is my first post here, so I wanted to give as much info as possible. Question being: Is there a superceded part that anyone knows of for this car?
I search for the resistor, everywhere, and it comes up with the same thing. So I bought a wiring harness, thinking the resistor is superceded, but the harness I got is the same one that's on the car. Which doesn't fit the resistor.
Am I missing something that's completely obvious? If so, please lay into me about it. I will happily take any criticism here, over the constant nagging about not having AC, or Heat.

My 2006 Saturn vue keeps melting relays for the hvac blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor and took the blower out and inspected it, it spins freely but when I plugged in a new relay and tested the blower it became hot almost instantly. Do I need a new blower or is there a way to test from the battery side?

I have a very perplexing issue that has plagued my vehicle. Three years ago the blower fan would work intermittently, run for a minute or so and then turn off for 30-60s before repeating the cycle. I went to the dealership and charged me a boat load of money to replace the blower motor and blower motor resistor. Two years ago, I had another issue where the blend door actuators stopped working and I could only get heat from both sides (dual zone climate control), went to the dealership and they again charged me a boat load of money to replace them, and they said that the plastic gears had broken.
Now, I am having the intermittent blower fan issue again (there was a period of about a week where it "fixed" itself and was working fine). This time I attempted all the troubleshooting along with my dad. Tried replacing the blower motor and resistor, it didn't fix the issue but after replacing back the old ones the issue was temporarily fixed (the new one was extremely noisy so managed to return it). Then tried replacing the passenger side blend door actuator, but visually nothing seemed broken (that's where we could hear mechanical noises coming from when the fan stopped). Also attempted to reset the electrical system by unplugging the battery.
After all of this tinkering around, somehow the issue was resolved, although at one point after a week or two the fan turned off but I immediately turned it off manually and set the temperature to "neutral" positions for about a minute and then when I turned it on again it worked without issue. But a month later (this is now a couple of days ago) the problem came back. (And also quite conveniently right after I got my car back from the dealership for an oil change and a fix to an unrelated issue). I tried "resetting back to neutral" on the switches but this time it didn't fix the issue.
Here is a video that pretty much perfectly describes my problem (blower fan stops working, then you can hear the actuator doing something and then stopping when the fan resumes, though I don't have the temperature issue as described in the video), except that getting a new blend door actuator didn't resolve my issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se3qM0iiZI0
If it is helpful to know, this problem appeared on one of the first warm and sunny days of this year's spring, drove to a park in the morning without issue, then when I got back to my car, I sat around in it for about 10 minutes checking things on my phone and then the blower fan began to stop intermittently.

Handy tip, don't hold it when testing it. Gets very HOT. Is that normal?

2003 Chevy 2500, Auto, 6.0L, base model w/ manual windows and locks
So the truck was sitting for a few weeks without a battery, and I went to start it today and it cranks but doesn't start. The gauges are all 0, don't move at all, and the only light that comes on is the CEL and stays on. The radio still works, lights still work, but the hvac blower motor doesn't edit: hvac does work, forgot resistor is bad in most speeds.
I checked every fuse, engine bay, and cab, all good, and swapped relays around to rule out them too.
I pulled the dash apart to test the ignition switch, and the wires all have power with the key in the on position, except the starter wire, which does when cranking.
I checked wires at the PCM, and under the fuse box for rodent damage, but wires all looked good, and no nests.
I pulled the gauge cluster out, and I have a good ground, a 12v constant, and another 12v with key in the on position.
I've got good ground from the battery to the engine, and chassis.
And there are no CEL codes.+
The fuel pump does run.
The coils have power and ground, couldn't get a fuel injector connector off to test.
Edit: Was the gauge cluster. Found that with 14.4v from the battery charger the cluster worked, but still was a crank no start. Much diagnosis later (read below for Waynep712222's excellent help and guidance), I put the cluster on a test bench. Grounding pins A12 and B12 and 12.6v power to pins A9 and A11 led me to nothing at the cluster. I put the 14v to the cluster and it lights up, gauges sweep as it should. So the cluster is bad. Bad connection somewhere. Further update to come when I get the truck back together and it starts, to verify that it was 100% the cluster. At this point, I am confident.
Edit2: Well, looked over the cluster with a better eye, and found 3 cracked solder joints on the cluster resistors. Reflowed the solder and the cluster works as it should. The PRNDL lights up now also, didn't before. But still crank no start. Had 1 code P0335, and last resort just decided to replace the CKP. Pulled one from a 6.0 I had lying around, got under the truck, and low and behold, damn rodent chewed the wires. Apparently to get a P0335 you have to crank for more than 8 seconds. This thing pops off on the first full revolution, so I wasn't cranking near as long most of the time. So yeah, if you have a crank no start on a chevy, crank it for more than 8 seconds. Dumb.

i checked the fuse with a meter it was good had power on both sides replaced the blower resistor and i checked the voltage to the plug thats permanently on the jeep it has a constant 13v plugged the blower in and it just dont work so i decided to cut the plug off thought maybe i had a bad plug and straight wired it and still nothing even with a constant 13 but when i hook the motor up to the battery it turns on fine what could be my problem any help would be well appreciated.

I have a very perplexing issue that has plagued my vehicle. Three years ago the blower fan would work intermittently, run for a minute or so and then turn off for 30-60s before repeating the cycle. I went to the dealership and charged me a boat load of money to replace the blower motor and blower motor resistor. Two years ago, I had another issue where the blend door actuators stopped working and I could only get heat from both sides (dual zone climate control), went to the dealership and they again charged me a boat load of money to replace them, and they said that the plastic gears had broken.
Now, I am having the intermittent blower fan issue again (there was a period of about a week where it "fixed" itself and was working fine). This time I attempted all the troubleshooting along with my dad. Tried replacing the blower motor and resistor, it didn't fix the issue but after replacing back the old ones the issue was temporarily fixed. Then tried replacing the passenger side blend door actuator, but visually nothing seemed broken (that's where we could hear mechanical noises coming from when the fan stopped). Also attempted to reset the electrical system by unplugging the battery.
After all of this tinkering around, somehow the issue was resolved, although at one point after a week or two the fan turned off but I immediately turned it off manually and set the temperature to "neutral" positions for about a minute and then when I turned it on again it worked without issue. But a month later (this is now a couple of days ago) the problem came back. (And also quite conveniently right after I got my car back from the dealership for an oil change and a fix to an unrelated issue). I tried "resetting back to neutral" on the switches but this time it didn't fix the issue.
Here is a video that pretty much perfectly describes my problem (blower fan stops working, then you can hear the actuator doing something and then stopping when the fan resumes, though I don't have the temperature issue as described in the video), except that getting a new blend door actuator didn't resolve my issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se3qM0iiZI0
Edit to add more info: this problem appeared on one of the first warm and sunny days of this year's spring, drove to a park in the morning without issue, then when I got back to my car, I sat around in it for about 10 minutes checking things on my phone and then the blower fan began to stop intermittently.
Edit 2: after accidentally dropping a screw bit after replacing the blend door actuator, had to pull open the padding around the footwell and also found the two pieces of broken blend door actuator gear from two years ago!

mine died but i don’t know where in the car it is

I was quoted about 1k to replace my blower motor and blower motor resistor in Southern California. I don’t know anything about cars or Land-rovers in general. Can someone help me understand why it should or shouldn’t be this much.

Worth continuing to work on?
Long story short, my husband and I inherited my grandpa’s truck. It's a nice 1996 Chevy C1500 with the 350 in it, but it does have 222k miles on it. We knew it had some issues, but it’s snowballed into a cluster, and we're trying to gather opinions on if it’s worth it to keep repairing it at this point.
What we've done: Front brake lines, brake hoses and calipers to each side. Blower Motor Power steering pressure hose and return line Grounding straps and minor wire repairs
What needs to be done: Unknown engine oil leak power steering pump and pulley fuel lines (rusted out and leaking) new gas tank straps front shocks (one rusted into two pieces) Diag and repair coolant issue (Possibly just thermostat or temp sender to gauge) Head lamps Body work Unknown HVAC (only floor and defrost setting work) Unknown electrical to radio (very minor thing - radio turns off and on randomly)
The frame is in excellent shape, it does have rust but only minor surface, it's still very solid all throughout. The front left and right fenders need replacing, but the rest of the body is in very good shape. Most of the work we can do ourselves, but worried the engine oil leak may be something major that I'm not comfortable or not equipped to work on (like a rear main seal).

Long story short, my wife and I got a truck that was her grandpa's. It's a nice 1996 chevy C1500 with the 350 in it, but it does have 222k miles on it. We knew it had some issues, but its turned into a cluster, and we're trying to gather opinions if its worth it to keep repairing at this point.
What we've done: Front Brake lines, brake hoses and calipers to each side. Blower Motor Power steering pressure hose and return line Grounding straps and minor wire repairs
What needs to be done: Unknown engine oil leak power steering pump and pulley fuel lines (rusted out and leaking) new gas tank straps front shocks (one rusted into two pieces) Diag and repair coolant issue (Possibly just thermostat or temp sender to gauge) Head lamps Body work Unknown HVAC (only floor and defrost setting work) Unknown electrical to radio (very minor thing - radio turns off and on randomly)
The frame is in excellent shape, it does have rust but only minor surface, it's still very solid all throughout. The front left and right fenders need replacing, but the rest of the body is in very good shape. Most of the work we can do ourselves, but worried the engine oil leak may be something major that I'm not comfortable or not equipped to work on (like a rear main seal).