Needing to do an oil change but can not find rotella 10-40 near me. Should I swap to another brand, or would going 15-40 be better? I live in Ms and don’t ride during cold months
I’m asking because I’m not sure of the ramifications of swapping from rotella to a standard synthetic.
Thanks

Noticed some oil leakage on my engine mount of my 2015 Mazda 3. Took it to a garage in Sharjah. He said mount is gone and needs to be replaced. Will cost me 370 for single mount with installation(Not original-Taiwanese made). Asked another garage in Al Quoz. He said better to change all mounts. Still waiting for price for the original spares from this garage.
There is visible movement of engine while changing gears. 1. Do I need to replace all mounts as the second garage said or just a single one is enough? 2. How reliable are these aftermarket spares? 3. Any recommended garages for this work? How much should this cost me?

Hey guys I just wanted some help so I changed the oil for the first time by myself on a Mazda 3 2019. However, after driving for 10-15 mins I get low oil level warning. What did I do wrong I added some more oil and this time it took maybe 30-40 mins for the warning to come up again. I measured the oil and I know I put the right amount in. Plug and everything is also back on tight. Should I add a bit more oil or ?

I'm looking at getting a cheap Mazda 3 hatchback for a daily just to drive me to college/work and back home. I found a 2012 Mazda 3 Hatchback with 198k Miles on it. It has a practically rust free undercarriage and a fully rust free body. It's a 1 owner who has had it since new and has changed the oil every 5k miles. I would like to know if I would have any reliability issues with it for the next few years that would be quite costly. I'm going to take another look at it in person again in a couple days and if there are any big things I should look for or ask before making this purchase. I haven't seen anything about the reliability being bad on 2nd gens around this mileage but wanted to ask people on here who have had experience with them. Thanks.

Recently purchased a 22’ HSE Dynamic. Love the performance and want to own the car long term. Purchased as a CPO w 19k miles, so I’d like to give it some extra up front love since you never know how it was treated beforehand.
What kinda preventative maintenance are you all doing?
Are you doing oil additives and fuel system additives? If so, at what mileage intervals/frequency?
I plan on getting new brakes and flushing liquids at next oil change, around 25k-27k miles. Anything else I should consider at that time?

What kind of oil change should I do for my 2011 Jetta? Has about 116k miles :) I see things like synthetic, full on synthetic, high mileage, etc but I have no clue what they mean.
(I don’t know anything about cars so thank you in advance!)

Hi everyone! We are changing our end-of-life asphalt roof to standing seam metal to prepare for solar panels. We received quotes from 3 different roofing companies and there is one we are very close to deciding on because it's the most affordable. The other quotes were at least $13k-$15k higher. It's quite an investment and I'm hoping to get some expert eyes on it here.
Our roof is about 2400 SF and our house is built in 1951, a typical Cape Cod style with 16" rafters on center. We are in the Northeast, so snow about 6 months of the year.

Here's the quote we are thinking of going with:
Reputable local roofer that looks like they're part of a nationwide brand/group. They install asphalt and other types of metal roofs too.
$23k for roof + $2300 to reframe rafters to fit a curb-mounted 45" x 46" FS SO6 Velux skylight over kitchen (exterior work only, no interior framing or finishing included)
1 layer of shingles tear-off. Repair or replace plywood at $325 per 10' x 10', if needed. (Roofing specialist went up on roof and walked around and doesn't think we have any to replace.)
26ga STRIATED Galvalume with Akzonobel coating (I think this is a siliconized resin coating) over 1 x 4 purlins over existing 1/2" roof decking with synthetic underlayment. We are choosing a dark brown frosted finish.
Ridge vent, snow bars, reflashing chimney, vent kits, side wall flashing, corners and gable trim, closures and gaskets included.
Metal has a 40-year warranty and the paint has a chalk/fade warranty of 30 years. Roofer provides 10 years of workmanship warranty.

We drove around to look at houses they've installed similar roofs on and there are definitely noticeable striations. We don't dislike it though we prefer a flatter (minimal 2-pencil rib) look but not $15k more in preference.
I asked about 24ga version of our panels and he said that will oil-can badly, possibly no striations on 24ga? It wasn't very clear. I also asked about Kynar-coated panel option and he said that we would need to replace our roof deck with a thicker decking for proper installation.
Does this sound like a decent choice? Is there anything else we should be aware of or ask about? Thanks so much!!

What did you pay for your 20K service and what was included? I contacted two different local dealerships and got two completely different answers. I have serious trust issues when it comes to these guys and what’s real. Thx in advance:)
The first one said the cost would start at $90 for the oil change and another $25 for the tire rotation, but wouldn’t commit to any other charges bc of those will come from the service tech.
Service - 20,000 Miles or 24 Months Rotate Tires Replace Engine Oil and Oil Filter Re-torque Propeller Shaft Bolt Reset Oil Replacement Reminder Tighten Nuts and Bolts on Chassis and Body Inspect Air Filter Inspect Brake Linings/Drums and Brake Pads/Discs Inspect Ball Joints and Dust Covers Inspect Drive Shaft Boots Inspect Steering Linkage and Boots Check Installation of Driver's Floor Mat Inspect and Adjust All Fluid Levels Inspect Wiper Blades
————————————————
The other was a total of $854.65 and included the following:
15,000 MILE INTERVAL SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE SERVICE
• RESET Maintenance Reminder Light • ROTATE Tires, Inspect Wear and Adjust Tire Pressure • PERFORM Multi-Point Inspection and Safety Evaluation • PERFORM Battery Service (Clean Battery Cable Ends and Terminals, Install Anti-Corrosion Pads) • PERFORM 4 Wheel Alignment • CHECK Installation of Driver-Side Floor Mat • INSPECT and Set Tire Pressures to Factory Specifications • VISUALLY Inspect Brake Linings / Drums and Brake Pads • PERFORM Wheel Balance • PERFORM Annual Vehicle Health Check • PERFORM Annual Brake Service Includes Additional items: • REPLACE Engine Air Filter • REPLACE Engine Oil and Oil Filter (0w16) • REPLACE Cabin HEPA Filter

I know they are both important but I rarely ever drive. I’ve used full synthetic oil in my 2012 Chevrolet Cruze since I bought it, and it has ~93,000 miles in it now. I was told for full synthetic I can wait 6,000 miles or 6 months for an oil change.
Well… it’s been 2 years. However I’ve only driven 5,000 miles in that 2 years. I plan on bringing it in soon, but I’m afraid I’d fucked up the engine already (though it’s still running good now).
ETA: I know people will do the math and say 93,000 miles over 12 years is more than 2,500 miles a year. The first 10 years of this cars life, it was my wife’s work car so it drove more and got regular oil changes then. Since it’s been mine, it’s basically sitting 5 days a week.

2006 4runner VVT-i 1GR-FE V6 179,000 miles
Upon starting my vehicle the drivers side gives off a strong gasoline odor.
The smell typically lasts for about 1-2 minutes then fades away. It happens in the morning and evenings usually when the engine is started cold.
I took my vehicle to a local mechanic to try to figure out the source of the smell and they couldn't determine what was going on. They checked for leaks and ran a "pressure test." With no conclusive results.
I've never had any issues with this vehicle. RI maintain a religious 5000mi synthetic oil change schedule since purchased in 2018.
I keep up with regular maintenance and typically do the work on my own (YouTube University). I'm by no means a skilled mechanic, but I'm a competent human with access to tools and the internet.
I attempted my own inspection of the engine, fuel tank, and fuel lines looking for leaks or residue, but didn't find anything. That's when I took it into a shop.
Any tips or advice? My 4runner seems to be running fine, but thus smell is crazy. Something has to be going on.
Thanks!

I have a 2016 Evoque, U.S. version, 2.0L turbocharged 4-cyl gas engine.
It's oil change time. Am I wrong to assume that any synthetic SP grade oil may be used in it? My rationale is that when the car was built the oil used at the time was SN and GF-5. Today oils have improved to SP and GF-6A. Since the new oil is superior to the oil used back in 2016, it should be good, right? Especially since the SP/GF-6A spec was designed with small high-output turbo motors in mind.

I've got a 1st Gen Mazda 3 5MT Hatch with over 200k.. I've been wanting a 2017-2018 6MT 2.5L HB for years now, but the MT 2.5L are so hard to find for a decent price.
So I've changed course and am instead going for the CX-5 a Touring or GT 2016-2017. I have yet to drive one, so I was wondering if there's anything I need to look out for when checking them out. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

I've got a 1st Gen Mazda 3 5MT Hatch with over 200k.. I've been wanting a 2017-2018 6MT 2.5L HB for years now, but the MT 2.5L are so hard to find for a decent price.
So I've changed course and am instead going for the CX-5 a Touring or GT 2016-2017. I have yet to drive one, so I was wondering if there's anything I need to look out for when checking them out. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

Just got my first car recently. Certified preowned, was serviced before I purchased.
Due to military I travel a lot. Before leaving Mississippi I got an oil change (synthetic high mileage) but didn’t write down the exact miles it was at when I got it done at Take 5.
Went from Mississippi to Colorado, 1400 miles. Put on another 500 miles in Colorado, then Colorado to California, 1100 miles. This puts me at 3,000ish miles since my last oil change, do I need another?

The Ford Ranger, first introduced in 1983, offered a range of engine options including a 4-cylinder 2.2L Mazda/Perkins diesel that produced 59 horsepower and 90 torque.
In 1985, the Ford Ranger underwent an engine change, swapping out the Mazda diesel engine for a Mitsubishi-built 2.3 L turbodiesel, which boasted 86 horsepower and 134 torque. However, the availability of diesel engines as an option ceased after 1987, marking the end of the diesels era for the Ford Ranger.
Here's some information about the 2.2 L diesel sourced from dieselhub.com:
​

Engine:	2.2L Perkins model 4.135 Diesel
Configuration:	Inline 4 cylinder
Model Years:	1983 - 1984 Ford Ranger
Displacement:	134.8 CID, 2.2 liters
Compression Ratio:	22.0 : 1
Firing Order:	1 - 3 -4 - 2
Cylinder Bore:	3.50" (88.9 mm)
Cylinder Stroke:	3.50" (88.9 mm)
Aspiration:	Naturally aspirated
Injection:	Indirect injection (IDI)
Oil Capacity:	5.30 quarts w/ filter
Est. Engine Weight:	~ 530 lbs dry
Rated Horsepower:	59 hp @ 4,000 rpm
Rated Torque:	90 lb-ft @ 2,500 rpm
Fuel Economy:	41 mpg highway, 33 mpg combined
Max Payload:	1,620 lbs
GVWR:	4,460 - 4,500 lbs
Vin Code:	P

​
Here's some information about the 2.3 L diesel sourced from dieselhub.com:
​

Engine:	2.3L Mitsubishi model 4D55 diesel
Configuration:	Inline 4 cylinder
Model Years:	1985 - 1986 Ford Ranger
Displacement:	143 CID, 2.3 liters
Compression Ratio:	21.1 : 1
Cylinder Bore:	3.59" (91.1 mm)
Cylinder Stroke:	3.54" (90.0 mm)
Aspiration:	Turbocharged, wastegated
Injection:	Indirect injection (IDI)
Valvetrain:	2 valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
Oil Capacity:	7.0 quarts w/ filter
Rated Horsepower:	86 hp @ 4,200 rpm
Rated Torque:	134 lb-ft @ 2,000 rpm
Max Rated Engine Speed:	4,500 rpm
Vin Code:	E

Not a ton of info for these is out there compared to their gasoline powered counterparts. There aren't a whole lot of these left, so if you have one consider yourself lucky for obtaining a piece of history!

My Jeep has 67,000 miles on it, but it’s a 2012 so it’s not a new car by any means. When would be a good time to switch over to high mileage oil and what is the big difference and benefits of it?
I’ll be using conventional oil, solely because I drive Fuck all these days, a big week of driving for me is 40 miles so anymore I don’t do oil changes because of mileage, I do them every 6 months to keep the fluids fresh so synthetic seems like a waste of money when I get the conventional For $30 w/ tire rotation.

The internal combustion engine is a formidable invention. However, there have been so many developments in the technology too. Either it is the introduction of sensors to manage the engine operation or optimum fuel delivery by the ever-sophisticated fuel injectors.
However, one thing has not changed too much. It is the timing belt, or more precisely, the timing chain. The timing belt has an important role in synchronising the various important parts that complete the engine’s operations.
How does the timing chain work properly?
More specifically, a car consists of a crankshaft and a camshaft at the lower and upper portions of the engine, respectively. Furthermore, proper synchronisation is required to allow the mixture of fuel and air inside the combustion chamber, as well as the release of exhaust gases at a specific time.
A timing chain manages the opening of the engine’s inlet and exhaust valves at a proper interval for a successful internal combustion process. However, an optimal level of performance is only possible when there is a proper timing chain available. A damaged or loose timing chain would make it impossible to achieve peak engine performance, fuel economy, and, of course, power.
When do you expect a car to have a damaged timing chain?
Under normal circumstances, a timing chain should last 100,000 kilometres. But it is completely relative to the driving habits of a driver as well as the routine maintenance of a vehicle. Usually, the timing chain may get loose in length or it might lose a link.
If the timing chain is loose, there will be no acceleration, while a broken link will cause intermittent jerks while driving. Because a timing chain is a critical component under the hood, you should be aware of various signs of a bad timing belt or chain. If any problem persists with your car, it might throw these problems in front of you.
Engine rattling during starting or idling
A stretched timing chain is obviously going to make proceedings hard because there would be strain on the camshaft and crankshaft. Most commonly, a car produces the rattling sound under the hood.
Such an obnoxious sound is audible, especially when the vehicle is starting or idling. Sometimes, the timing chain could hit the cover. Besides, a worn timing chain might create problems in the synchronisation of the valves, while pistons may get damaged. Sometimes, the engine may encounter serious damage when pistons collide with the valves at the cylinder head.
However, there is an alternative in terms of Service My Car experts to get your car’s timing chain inspected and avoid a car engine repair.
Occurrence of metal shavings in the engine oil
Engine oil may receive a considerable presence of metal shavings when the timing chain starts to wear. When the timing chain starts to wear out, small metal pieces start to fade away, and they find their way into the oil pan.
However, you definitely get your vehicle’s routine car maintenance when a mechanic goes for a car oil change. But if there are metal shavings in the engine oil, it is a red alert for the timing belt.
Metal shavings are also the result of the deterioration of a number of components under the hood. Therefore, if a mechanic hints at metal debris, ask him for an inspection. Besides, you can come to Service My Car for expert assistance.
Car hints with the help of a check engine light
A check engine light may come on for a number of reasons with a car’s engine. A car’s computer never hesitates to hint at a problem with the help of the check engine light.
The computer sends signals to the dashboard to flash the light when there is any problem with a car’s engine or emission system. However, a problematic timing chain might hamper engine performance, and there would be improper emissions.
However, there is also a diagnostic code to find the real problems behind the scenes. Service My Car offers expert assessment with its car scanning and diagnostics service. If there is a need, your car will also get a timing belt replacement.
Misfiring engine along with poor performance
Combustion relies on the valve timing, and the timing chain ensures it. However, a mere disturbance might result in problems with the combustion process and consequently poor performance.
Usually, a timing chain might stretch and become loose. Sometimes, it may miss a chain link. A missing link could skip a gear on supporting tools such as a camshaft or crankshaft. When it happens, the engine timing is not as efficient, which definitely results in a misfire.
There are numerous causes of engine misfiring. However, timing chain failure is one of the more serious. It is necessary to take preventive steps by visiting Service My Car as soon as possible.
Gone through all this and left wondering 'where is the best mazda service centre near me?' Look no further than Service My Car to get the best mazda car service in the town.
You cannot expect an engine to perform with a worn timing chain. Besides, it is also risky to drive in such a condition. However, you can avoid such a situation by getting proper care from Service My Car. Simply book a car service online and request a car repair quote online.