Best 1150 socket cpu

A metal loving hearthstone hero!

2014.02.11 19:04 samacora A metal loving hearthstone hero!

A subreddit dedicated to the twitch streamer cherrywarrior / nemesis Chris has 17 years experience in playing trading card games, he played magic the gathering on a weekly basis for close to a decade attending many tournaments, Playing at the most competitive level. He also played the World of Warcraft trading card game throughout its lifespan again attending many events.

2023.06.06 22:29 simo-dz Seeking Recommendations: Open-Source Solution for Server Monitoring, Uptime, and Public Status Page

Hi Algeria Reddit community!
I'm currently in search of an open-source solution that can handle server monitoring, uptime tracking, and provide a public status page for my services. I have a PHP app with MySQL, Node.js, MongoDB, & API, among others.
Here's what I'm looking for:
  1. Server Monitoring: A tool that can collect metrics and monitor the health and performance of my servers, services, and applications.
  2. Uptime Tracking: The ability to track the uptime of my services and receive alerts if any incidents or outages occur.
  3. Public Status Page: I need a public page (e.g., to display the current status and uptime of my services to my users.
  4. Open-Source: I prefer an open-source free solution that provides flexibility, customization options, and community support.
I have come across tools like Grafana, Prometheus, CachetHQ, but I'm open to exploring other recommendations from the community. I would appreciate any insights, experiences, or suggestions on the best open-source tool or combination of tools that can fulfill my requirements.
Thank you in advance for your help!
submitted by simo-dz to algeria [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 22:27 PippinIRL Rate my build

Hi there
Hoping to buy a new computer after 8 years on my old rig. It’s served me well but is now at the stage where it can’t play newer games. I’m looking at this current build below but I haven’t built a PC in so long that I don’t have much clue over what is the best hardware per value anymore. I’m hoping for a PC that will comfortably play the newest games and will hold out for the next few years (until hopefully the GPU market becomes less of a joke!). The current build I am looking at is:
Processor (CPU) Intel® Core™ i5 14-Core Processor i5-13600KF (Up to 5.1GHz)
ASUS® TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI D4 (LGA1700, USB 3.2, PCIe 5.0) - ARGB Ready
Memory (RAM) 16GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card 16GB AMD RADEON™ RX 6950 XT - HDMI, DP - DX® 12
1st M.2 SSD Drive 2TB CORSAIR CORE XT MP600 NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD (up to 5000 MB/R, 4400 MB/W)
Processor Cooling PCS FrostFlow 100 RGB V3 Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Could anyone offer any suggestions on this build and whether I would be getting a reasonable deal with this or anything they would change. I was planning on having it built through and the current build comes out at £1700 which is my current budget.
Any help someone could offer with this would be much appreciated. Thank you.
submitted by PippinIRL to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 22:22 darksloth05 Well that escalated quickly…

TLDR; I wanted to do some casual gaming on a Frankenstein PC build, and within 2 weeks my office has become a sim racing dojo.
After trolling Reddit for years, I’ve found something I am interested and “proud” enough to post about. So here it goes -
I've recently gotten into sim racing. While I am a noob and have a lot to learn, I have learned a lot in a short time so far, and am enjoying just being immersed into a hobby, both while doing it and doing "for" it. I have learned to research a lot, spend $$$ where you need to, and DIY where you can. I'm not looking to be competitive or beat the Joneses, rather just have a fun experience where I can turn off the world and feel like I am somewhere else by sight, feel, and sound. Hopefully this post is inspiring to others, educational, reminiscent of your beginnings, or just a fun read. I would also be interested to know your thoughts on my setup. Did I do it right/wrong? What would have been a better decision/route? What can I do for the next big thing?
I built my first and only PC close to 10 years ago and played shooter games/GTA. It’s long since gone and I’ve been wanting to get another “lazy” hobby.
I had an old HP PC lying around I got off eBay about a year ago. Decided to buy a high-end GPU and do some casual gaming on it. Wanted to do 4k so went ahead and got a used rtx 3090 on eBay for $700 shipped. I knew the CPU would be the bottleneck if I really wanted to push things eventually (i7-7700) but decided the build was enough for what I was wanting for now. Well… I have always been interested in cars and within the past 2 years, more interested in Formula 1 (thanks Drive to Survive). I got an old Xbox controller and loaded up steam/F1 22 and was pretty intrigued by how fun it was just using my thumbs lol. I decided I would go ahead and get a wheel/pedal combo to see HOW much more fun it could possibly be… whoops…
I got the Logitech G923 and was delighted with the novel sense of "driving" for the first time. I decided to keep looking at other ways to make the experience more "complete" as I was sitting in a dining chair, had my wheel clamped to a sliding keyboard drawer, and had my 38in ultrawide as close to the wheel as possible. Seeing as I did not want to upgrade my monitor, I figured it would be a great time to try VR for the first time. I had always wanted to wait until VR was a little more mature and I wasn't in a grainy, cartoon world. I read great things about the implementation in sim titles and started doing my research on which headset to go with.
HP Reverb G2 v2 (even despite the WMR situation) seemed to be the way to go in regard to visual fidelity and price point, so again... I found a really great deal on eBay for about $290.
Side note - At this point, I had already saved up birthday, Christmas, and other fun monies, so I felt ok with making some additional purchases (the GPU was planned and saved for aside from subsequent items in this post).
Well... first time ever in VR and my mind was blown. I was instantly hooked. I have played all sorts of racing games in the past, but I have never in my life felt so immersed into a game, even thinking back to my childhood days of Zelda OoT- different genre, but same concept. Back to racing... The spatial awareness and depth perception of racing in a different world made any prior racing game/sim experience obsolete to me. I knew I could not go back to a monitor, at least as my primary way. The only problem was that my Frankenstein PC came back to bite me much sooner than I had wanted. The CPU was choking the GPU. I would get 60-70 FPS but even worse, so much stuttering and inconsistent FPS. So... I decided if I really wanted to go any further, I had to take care of this before anything else.
I ended up building a new PC while salvaging what I could from my current build. I added a Gigabyte z690 MB, i7-12700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler, and Antec FT1 case- all AW deals excluding a new i7 for $250 shipped. Once I got it all together, smooth 90 FPS all the way.
During the same time of the VR experience and PC build, I knew I wanted a cockpit/rig, but could not swallow the price tag in order to do it right. Well, I started woodworking last year, and have built a few furniture items for my house, so I figured I could give the DIY route a try- I just didn't want something that was sketchy or an eye sore. I studied lots of different consumer rigs as well as other DIY builds, and I ended up jotting down some dimensions and forms I thought would work and just started building- making decisions/changes as I went. I found some scrap wood on the side of the road in 2 different instances. Used some black paint left over from painting a few walls in our house, put together what I thought to be a pretty decent rig. During all of this, I still did not have a seat... another pricey purchase I just didn't want to swallow. I also did not want to have a crappy looking junkyard car seat on my rig in hopes of avoiding the aforementioned eye sore. I eventually said to myself, "just go look," so I went to the junkyard one random day. Low and behold, not even a week earlier, a 2009 Audi TT had been delivered to the lot with 2 pristine front seats. What I was sure to be a bust ended up being the best part of my rig. I brought home both seats (bc why not?), cut the seat belts, wires, etc; cleaned them, and got one mounted on my rig- $25 of bliss. I would have hated myself if I had ended up sinking so much $$$ into a seat, let alone a rig. Between the rig and seat, I spent less than $50. Super solid, compact, and fits my needs exactly.
Around this time, I also decide to go ahead and build out a triple monitor setup.. Yes I know... VR is king... never go back... yaddie yah yah. However, I have 2 little babies, friends, family, etc. who I want to share this with and I am sure there will be times I don't want to wear the VR headset. All that in consideration, and the fact I already have 2 matching 27in 1440p monitors, and a triple monitor mount, it was a no-brainer to me. I got a third monitor (thanks eBay) for $100 and picked up 3x 2x4x8's from Lowes. Painted it black and it's now part of the sim corner of my office lol.
So now I have a pretty slick cockpit with triple monitors that I can move forward and backward separate from my rig. As my setup has matured from the start(literally the span of 2 weeks time), the experience has been more and more enjoyable. The only problem I have remaining is the G923. While it was a great first time experience, the "realness" of it quickly went away and it felt like a toy. On top of that, it was a loud wheel- annoyingly loud. Well... I've done everything else... might as well just get a direct drive and have a complete, all around experience.
After much research and deliberation on what to buy, where to buy, when to buy, etc. I decided on a Moza R9, SRP Pedals, and GS v2 wheel. Side note - Thanks to u/neebsd whose post told me exactly what I needed to know for my wheel/base, pedal decision! Being brand new with little experience, I wanted to know what it was like to go from a G923 to Moza r9 and his post sealed it for me.
I went back and forth on getting a Moza r5... also whether to get an ES wheel with a formula mod paired with the R9. At the end of the day, I was worried the r5 would be too little for me (I think I was right and am VERY happy I went with the r9) and that the ES wheel, while cost effective ($500 for a wheel???) would leave me wishing I did a nicer wheel for both form factor and quality of materials/feel.
So here I am today, a little delayed on my post, but not even a month later and I am VERY happy with all of my decisions. I can usually find things I wish I had done differently, either regret or just "meh, if I could do it again" feeling, but I am 100% happy with all of my decisions along the way. Whereas I spent some cash for a wheelbase/wheel, and pedals, new PC components, a VR headset, etc., I am proud of how I saved at least $800 on a good(relative) cockpit/seat combo and instead leveraged recent new found skills and somebody else's trash.
And of course... so much fun actually enjoying this new hobby.
Pics (or it didn't happen) -
submitted by darksloth05 to simracing [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 22:18 DukeBannon Quiet(er) Socket 478 CPU Cooler

Are there quieter CPU coolers for Socket 478 systems and if so, can you recommend one or many?
submitted by DukeBannon to vintagecomputing [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 22:01 a-i-sa-san Upgrade vs New Build

I built a PC several years ago, back in December 2016. It was fun to build haha.
I haven't actually used the desktop in ~3 years. I have just left it with my brother, and he used it occasionally for games and so on. Unfortunately I got the most ridiculous case, it was a massive Rosewill full ATX/E-ATX/XL-ATX. It is huge. I am older now haha.
I am finishing comp sci at college and don't really play much with games anymore. I don't really do much hardware-heavy stuff either, I think the most demanding task I have been doing is compiling a Qt/C++ widgets apps with graphics/some animations I am working on. That said, I really just want a small computer - I have a real fondness for things that don't stand way out/take up too much space.
So I want to either upgrade or build a new desktop - preferably though I would take whatever I reasonably can from the existing build. Everything is in good condition, it all still works as well as it ever did.
My main concern is that I will need to swap out the motherboard if I am going to downsize the case, and the chipset/socket in the MSI Z170A doesn't seem to go beyond Intel's 7th generation or so, so it would be a lot of effort/money for something that would need replaced again anyway if I ever need/want to modernize the CPU. I don't really think I am worried about the GPU though, at all - I think the most demanding game I play anymore is XCOM 2 and that isn't all that important to me, either.
I came up with a few upgrade specs, and I am hoping someone with more experience/someone more knowledgeable than myself might offer some pointers or let me know what the situation looks like! The most important thing to me is that I want it as small as I reasonably can (mini-ITX).
Current Specs
Motherboard - MSI Z170A Pro Carbon
CPU - i7-6700K, 4.0GHz w/ HD Graphics 530, 4-core, LGA1151
CPU fan - Cooler Master w/ the aluminum fins/heatpipes (looks awful lol wish I got something else)
GPU - GeGorce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming, 8GB
Memory - 2x 8GB Ballistix Tactical DDR4, 3000MT/s, 288pin (16GB total)
PSU - Rosewill Quark 1000W, 800+ platinum
Storage - Crucial MX300 525GB SSD and a SeaGate BarraCude 2TB/6.0Gb/s HDD
Case - Rosewill Throne-Windowed, Black ATX Full ToweE-ATX and XL-ATX

Upgrading w/o new CPU
Motherboard - Supermicro X11SCL-IF/Mini ITX LGA1151 $242.89
CPU - i7-6700K, 4.0GHz w/ HD Graphics 530, 4-core (Unchanged)
CPU fan - Thermalright AXP90-X47 $31.90
GPU - GeGorce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming, 8GB (Unchanged)
Memory - 2x 8GB Ballistix Tactical DDR4, 3000MT/s, 288pin (unchanged)
PSU - SeaSonic FOCUS 80+ Platinum, 750W, fully modular $159.99
Storage - Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB M.2 NVME SSD $114.99
Case - Silverstone RVZ03B-ARGB mini ITX $159.04
Total cost ~ $715

Upgrading w/ new CPU
Motherboard - Gigabyte B660I AORUS Pro, DDR4, mini ITX, LGA1700 $179.99
CPU - i7-13700KF, 3.4GHz 16-core $388.99
CPU fan - Thermalright AXP90-X47 $31.90
GPU - GeGorce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming, 8GB (Unchanged)
Memory - 2x 8GB Ballistix Tactical DDR4, 3000MT/s, 288pin (unchanged)
PSU - SeaSonic FOCUS PX 850W 80+ Platinum, fully modular $191.22
Storage - Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB M.2 NVME SSD $114.99
Case - Silverstone RVZ03B-ARGB mini ITX $159.04
Total cost ~ $1,075
I guess it really comes down to whether or not to get a new CPU - they are pricey! I really want to hang on to the GPU though, those things cost so much.
I think the things I value in what I picked look like:
- With the new CPU/Gigabyte motherboard I get 1x usb-c, which would be awesome
- I want the CPU to be overclockable, but really don't care about the iGPU
- I have always thought with a PSU it was best to get a healthy amount more power than you will actually need. Someone had told me when I was building the desktop originally that if it is always running sort of close to the upper limit it will expire quickly. I am not sure if that is true or not but the PSU in the tower now is working just fine still
- I don't really know how to feel about the memory. 8GB would be a hard pass, but I feel like 16GB is probably OK all things considered?
Thank you so much! This ended up being a lot lengthier and more verbose than I expected or intended haha, but building computers is pretty fun. Can someone offer some insight, what makes more sense to do? Do any of my part picks look particularly unnecessary?
submitted by a-i-sa-san to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:59 MalikTheGeek0712 Cooler for 7950x?

Sometime this month I will complete the BEST BUILD I EVER MADE. With my CPU being the 7950x. All my CPUs have been low-end and only required the Stock Cooler. I'm now going high-end and the 7950x does not have one. What coolers out there are good? My case is also the Meshify C (Or something like that) so there can only be two fans at the top OR two fans in the front (If someone suggests an AIO).
submitted by MalikTheGeek0712 to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:45 Omnisiah_Priest ZS A4S v3 - my SFF journey in 6.2L case (with lot of photos)

ZS A4S v3 - my SFF journey in 6.2L case (with lot of photos)
This post is a compilation of my previous three (actually more) Reddit posts - about 3070, 3080 and 4070 builds in the beautiful ZS-A4S v3 case. I have long wanted to summarize my experience in one text post - many do not read the comments under posts with photos, also, as I found out, my comments even can be hidden - but exactly there that I describe my builds in details. Here you will known how to create handmade dust protection, an airflow separator for sandwich-build, about the shortest air-cooled 3080, a fake MF-700F, two mistakes in the design of the Asus B760-I, and how to kill a lot of time working on one of the most compact builds.
Due to the limit of 20 photos in one post, I had to add just a few photos here, the rest is uploaded to Imgur (many photos will be there with comments explaining their context), I will give links to the albums below.
If you're planning to build in this case, I advice you read and view all of this.
Links to the products that I used will be in my comment below (firs comment if you "sort by: old"), unless the Reddit hides it.
Why ZS-A4S v3?
When choosing an SFF case, in addition to size and hardware compatibility, I have such criteria as:
- "design" - I love elegant minimalist cases GhostS1-style without unnecessary elements and pretentiousness;
- "metal processing quality" - I want my case to look like it was carved from a single piece of aluminum (which is not possible with steel, your Captain Obviously), with no gaps / ill-fitting parts;
- "dust protection capability" - I hate dust/hairs in the case;
- "fans blowing upwards" - better cooling with this option;
I had an Aklla A4 Pro for a long time that met these criteria, but over time it became too big for me (SFF-madness - is when your case seems bigger to you than it was six months ago and you need something SMALLER). I have been looking for a smaller case for a long time, but did not find something that I would like. I noticed ZS-A4S v3 a some time ago, but passed through by due to the Flex PSU and the inability to install my Gigabyte 3080 Turbo (as I thought at the time). I kept searching but finding nothing better, so decided to sacrifice my 3080 for the 3070 and as result was ordered this case. That's how its started.
Mesh vs Dust
First of all, I want to talk about dust protection. In fact, it was done gradually. For example, in builds with 3070 and 3080, the bottom was completely closed, and only for build with 4070 I installed a mesh there - the bottom panel has a complex geometry and I decided not to cut the mesh there first.
I used 60 mesh/inch thin steel mesh and strong double sided tape 3mm and 2mm wide and 0.5mm thick.
Installing mesh on the side and bottom panels did not affect temperatures at all, only the mesh on the top panel increased the temperature of the video card by 1-2C, not more.
i7 8700 + RTX 3070 build:

GPU - Inno3D 3070 Twin X2 OC (undervolted to 1830MHz/850mV without FPS losses)
CPU - 8700k, 4200MHz/1.22V (LLC level 1, delidded, 90-100W max real TDP)
CPU cooler - Thermalright AXP-90 x47 Full Copper
RAM - 2*16gb DDR4 Kingston HyperX Fury Black HX426C16FBK2/32
HDD - 4TB Seagate BarraCuda 2.5"
SSD - Samsung 860 Evo 1000gb M.2 MZ-N6E1T0BW
PSU - Flex 1U Dianjipa MF-700F (modified Enhance ENP-7660B) + Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX

I got 85C°/95W on the CPU under the AIDA64 test (this is more than what I get in my daily use, the processor rarely gets even up to 78C°). With undervolting 1860/850 GPU heated up to 77C°/200W at 67% fan speed. Case fans are set at a constant 60% speed. Noise is acceptable, not noticeable when playing with headphones even at low headphone volume.
A few days later, I realized where the main source of noise in the computer is the Noctua power supply fan. The fact is that the original fan has a much higher power, 0.2 amperes, and the power supply supplies power based on the factory settings. I added "Noctua low noise adapter na-cr10" to the fan - and the noise immediately became moderate.
This GPU model was the only 3070 model that fit here. There was another model, but it had a worse cooling system design.
The power supply I used was very handy, with very flexible silicone-sheathed modular cables. But later I showed a photo of disassembled it to knowledgeable people, and they told me that this is not a modified Enhance ENP-7660B, but something else, some lower quality model. I replaced it a month later with a original 7660B for the next build.
i5 13400 + RTX 3080 build:

GPU - Gigabyte RTX 3080 Turbo + power adapter from BYKSKI water block
CPU - Intel Core i5 13400 + Thermalright Contact Frame
CPU cooler - Thermalright AXP90 X47 Full + Thermalright TFX thermalpaste
MB - Asus ROG Strix B760-I Gaming WiFi
RAM - 2*16gb DDR5 Kingston Fury
SSD - 2TB m.2 PCI-E 4.0 Kingston SNV2S/2000G
HDD - 4TB Seagate BarraCuda 2.5"
PSU - Enhance ENP 7660B + NF-A4x20 FLX fan

After a while, I found a way to install the 3080 in this case, using cables from the Bykski water block instead of the factory power adapter. In fact, at first my goal was 3090, also a turbo and also from Gigabyte, but even with undervolting down to 300W it overheats to 100C and was very noisy.
With the 3080 I managed to create a build suitable for gaming, with an undervolt of 1740/775 and a memory overclock of +500, the GPU consumed 260W in average. I managed to almost not lose performance in comparison with the factory settings, somewhere I even got an increased fps due to a stable frequency and the removing the throttling. The GPU heats up to 81C by the core and up to 88C by the memory. 2750 rpm, 90% of the speed of this turbine is a significant noise to which is added also some turbulent noise due to the closely spaced side panel. Thats not a comfortable if you playing without headphones. But with headphones, even at a low volume level, the problem is solved - I not hear the fan at all.
I ran into two issues with the Asus ROG Strix B760-I Gaming WiFi - the heatsink and shroud above the motherboard outputs had a protrusion of about 5mm and it couldn't fit into this case. I removed the heatsink and shroud and cut them off and then reinstalled them. Also the cooler backplate can only be mounted to this board by flipping it over and using the long screws from the kit. This increased the protrusion of the cooler backplate at the back of the motherboard, but in the end there was enough room for even that.
The CPU in games heats up to no more than 60C even without additional power settings. I "undervolted" it by setting up "LLC level" to 1, which reduced power consumption and heating without loss of performance. The 13400 is an excellent processor for a computer of this size, there is nothing to say more.
30dB - idle
33dB - CPU load only
45dB - gaming load
(hereinafter, the same phone was used to measure the noise, the measurement technique is the same everywhere - 70 cm from the case, with the microphone towards the case, the average noise level in 30 seconds)
i5 13400 + RTX 4070 build:

GPU - Palit RTX 4070 Dual OC
CPU - Intel Core i5 13400 + Thermalright Contact Frame
CPU Cooler - Thermalright AXP90 X47 Full + Thermalright TFX thermalpaste
MB - Asus ROG Strix B760-I Gaming WiFi
RAM - 2*16gb DDR5 Kingston Fury 5400mhz
SSD - 2TB m.2 PCI-E 4.0 Kingston SNV2S/2000G
HDD - 4TB Seagate BarraCuda 2.5"
PSU - Enhance ENP 7660B + NF-A4x20 FLX fan

When I finished my second build with 3080 in this case, I thought I would be using it for a long time. But here comes the 4070, which is 120W cooler than the 3080 for the same performance and has a DLSS 3.0 with Frame Generation, and there are several models that fit in my case...
So I couldn't resist the temptation.
When I first installed the graphics card, I realized that the blow-through heatsink was a very bad idea for such a small sandwich case, and I should not have covered the ventilation grill on the bottom, which I did back in the first build with the 3070. The graphics card heated everything else inside, and the power supply was especially bad.
So, I bought an A4 folder with a plastic cover ~0.7mm thick and got to work. I made cutouts that repeat all the shapes from the side of the video card, made sure that it fits and installed the video card in place. Then, using double-sided tape, I installed the mesh on the bottom of the case (and regular tape to cover the edges), as I did before with all other panels that have ventilation perforations.
Done? Not so easy!
The fans of the video card touched the filter mesh on the side panel, the mesh did not let them work. In an attempt to fix this, I glued strips of soft material ~4mm thick around the fans on the video card shroud (this material sold as a "self-adhesive filter" in my country). The grid became less of an obstacle, but there was still the sound of the fans touching it. I had to remove the mesh from the panel and add a strip of 3mm double-sided tape (better to use 2mm!) every 4 rows of vents, then glue the mesh back in place. Finally it worked perfectly! The only negative after my dust protection is that the side panels only slide down. After installing soft adhesive tapes around the video card coolers - the panel on the side of the video card cannot be moved up and down, I put it on the side, slightly removing the front panel. It is enough to move it by 3mm, in fact, it is not difficult if you have mastered the assembly of such a case.
4070 Undervolting:
Of course, I started undervolting almost immediately after buying the card. This 4070 behaves differently than any other 10/20/30 series cards. The best that I managed to achieve without losing performance is 2700MHz / 915mV. Power consumption in games after that averaged 165-175 watts instead of 195-200. Trying to achieve lower consumption by sacrificing 1-2% of performance (it worked before!) led to failure - at 2600MHz / 875mV I got a performance drop of 12%.
In addition to the undervolt, I increased the memory frequency by +1000, up to 23000 MHz of the real effective frequency. This increased its throughput to 552.2Gb/s.
Results in RDR2 and Cyberpunk 2077 - on the pictures. The air heated by the GPU still affects the temperature of the CPU, but only by a couple of degrees. I was surprised by the low memory temperatures, which is 10 degrees cooler than the 3060 with the same power-consumption of 170W. You can get much less noise if you limit the fans to 50% of the speed. This will increase the temperature, but not critically.
25.5dB - idle
32.7dB - CPU load only
35.2dB - gaming load (80% case and PSU fans, 60% GPU fans)
Cyberpunk 2077
I worked on each build for several days, it was my longest work on a PC build, it was difficult, but I had a lot of enjoy by getting the finished build.
The ZS A4S v3 - is the best case for dual slot dual fan GPUs with TDP less than 200W and CPUs with TDP less than 90W. I will definitely continue to use this case for a long time because I doubt I will find anything better in build quality and design (unless perhaps someone will make the same high-quality aluminum copy of Velka 5, or in the future powerful single-cooler GPUs will be released).
I hope the RTX 5070 will fit here, which I will buy in 2.5 years :)
submitted by Omnisiah_Priest to sffpc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:40 Blackrevenge34 So this is the "Mid Range Gaming Rig" that ai maked for me. What is your opinions about this?

So this is the submitted by Blackrevenge34 to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:33 FunnySniperXD Best CPU for RX6750xt

I need to know what is the best CPU for playing at 1080p 165hz giving the most amount frames as possible for competitive games.
submitted by FunnySniperXD to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:30 EFT-HotShot New PC New Problems, please help!

I need your help, my last 2 brain cells are unfortunately no longer enough for this. I put together a new system about 1 month ago: MB: Asus z790-i CPU: 13900KS <- CPU cooler taken over from the previous system. (Heatkiller IV Pro HWLUXX Edition). GPU: 4090 FE <- Heatkiller V Pro RAM: DDR5 2x16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 7600 36-46-46-82 (CMT32GX5M2X7600C36) PSU: Seasonic Prime Platinum 1300W ran perfectly over the weekend, tested some OC, everything worked as I wanted it to. Then I came back from work on Monday and wanted to start the computer, everything started as usual, fans rotate pump pumps everything flashes but I get no picture. What I then checked first: The Watercooling has no leak? Check All cables in, both in the power supply and in all connected devices? Check Both RAM slots checked if everything is seated correctly? Check Removed both RAM sticks and tested them individually? Check CMOS Clear done? Check GPU tested in the other system? Check CPU removed socket and CPU itself examined? Check BIOS updated via flashback? Check Everything with the same result as described above and still no picture... Good, so I sent the motherboard back and ordered an Asus Z790-Apex a little later. In the meantime the Supercoolcomputer Direct-Die cooler arrived, with which I replaced the heatkiller. Board arrived, cleaned everything again, installed, started. Everything starts, but still no picture... This time I have the nice error code display on the board and the 4 Q-LEDs that show me the "error source". Red(CPU) / Yellow(DRAM) / White(VGA) / Green(Boot device) When I start up, red lights up for 0.5 sec and then changes to yellow, permanently. Then the error code display shows me different codes. (00>12>28>4c>0d>Short Pause>0E>34>3E>3A>79>36>35>3C>6E>55>31>7F>00) i looked them up in the manual and none of them "sound" bad all just "initializations" or starting checks. When the last code is displayed "00" the system reboots and everything starts from the beginning. Boot Loop... I have both Corsair sticks also tested individually. If 1 stick is inserted it behaves exactly the same as if both are inserted. If none is in, the board shows reasonable "55" No memory installed. I ordered new RAM (DDR5 2x16GB G.Skill Trident Z5 7200 CL34-34-34-115) F5-7200J3445G16GX2-TZ5RS < this is in the QVL of the board and on the G.Skill website. The Corsair sticks from before did not, so I thought it was a simple compatibility issue from the RAM. Today the new RAM arrived, i installed it. Same scenario as before.... Pc starts > No picture > DRAM LED lights up > The codes from above are displayed > Boot Loop And now I'm sitting here, do not know what to do and ask you for help <3
submitted by EFT-HotShot to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:27 whodkne Stand alone electrical outlet mounting?

Prior owner sunk a 4x4 about 4" in the ground and nailed an indoor socket to it and put a weatherproof cover over it (nice!) so, needless to say I'm redoing it. Luckily they did use direct bury cable (although 2" deep). So, in repairing these stupid decisions I was thinking about the best solution. I'm leaning towards solid metal conduit as a vertical support, a foot or two deep, to a weather tight box, weather resistant GFCI with a weather tight in-use cover. My one concern is this won't be stable enough if not sunk in concrete, which is an option. Is there a better way to do it?
It's only about 2' off the ground, near some rockwork (so not just out in the open for someone to trip on). Also worry about the metal conduit rusting, just being in the ground, should I use non-metallic/PVC?
Only found one manufacturer really making a device for this (basically a box on a stake) which looked great, but at $40/ea didn't seem like a good deal.
submitted by whodkne to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:22 THEREALTUBZ786 What manufacturers RX 6650 XT should I buy?

I'm building a PC, and I'm slowly buying the parts, I've already gotten the CPU cooler and want to get the GPU before the prices increase ridiculously or something. I want a RX 6650 XT, as it seems the best graphics card that suits me, with only like a 2.2-2.4% bottle neck that I'm not really fussed about, because I'm not playing intensive games. Only some I will be playing and I don't mind having low FPS as I'm use to it. Many of my friends say it's fine as well, and I've found it for £266 on Newegg with free shipping which is apparently not bad. So first question what manufacturer should I get it from? I don't mind noise either just what's cheapest, and I guess not unbearably loud. Second is what's the best place to buy it from, that's safe, cheap and has preferably free delivery? For reference my specs for the computers are the following:
CPU AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE V2 ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Storage Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Case NZXT H5 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply NZXT C850 (2022) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
On a side not the estimated wattage is 344W is this PSU overkill? Maybe reduce to 750?
submitted by THEREALTUBZ786 to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:17 STANAGs Looking for advice on a dead card purchase from eBay seller

I bought all my parts for my new build from Amazon except the card. I bought an RTX 3080 Ti Founder's Edition on eBay. And the rest of the story goes how you might expect...
Aorus Z790 Elite Ax Rev 1.1
i9 13900k
64gb 6000 G Skills DDR5 ram
Crucial P5 Plus 2TB
EVGA G6 1000watt PSU
RTX3080 Ti Founders Edition
Hyte H40

I received the card and put my build together. I powered it on and the GPU fan spun up to 100%... no video/no light on the card.
I proceeded to install Windows using the onboard graphics, then shut down, reinserted the card, and tried to install Nvidia drivers. Briefly the card seems to work to boot into windows, but then 100% fan spin, video goes dead, and light shuts off again once I try installing the drivers.
So I left the card in but restarted using onboard graphics again. Card still spins up to 100% fan and lights shut off. Same thing every time. Device Manager shows a Code 43 (device not working properly). Error code 00002b.
So I did all the things the internet told me to try. Probably missing some, but these are the highlights:
  1. Try DDU a dozen times to remove display drivers in safe mode
  2. Try different and older Nvidia drivers installed via clean mode after DDU
  3. Run memory diagnostic tool
  4. Clear CMOS
  5. Turn off XMP and any sort of automated overclocking stuff. Also uninstall OC software if you have any (I didn't)
  6. Re seat the card and riser
  7. Check CPU, MOBO, and VGA cables to ensure they are properly connected on both ends
  8. Try different cables for the GPU to make sure sleeved cables aren't bad.
  9. Update Windows
  10. Update Bios/other drivers
  11. Reinstall Windows and start over
Finally I found some old GPU cables I needed and was able to try my GTX 1080 in my new build and everything worked perfectly. Just to confirm, i then tried my RTX 3080 ti in my old build and it exhibits the exact same behavior.

At this point it starts to look like hardware for sure, so I reach out to the seller. As you'd expect "It worked when I sent it. Not my problem" type response. Listing allows no returns... OK time to fight it out with ebay?
I also started a support ticket with Nvidia. Nvidia asks for the receipt as they are thinking it is hardware as well. Seller says they have the receipt and then send a message that just says "here ya go" but there is nothing attached. Still waiting to hear back on that.
Aside from never again buying second hand GPUs on eBay (lol), what advice do you have?
Will Nvidia honor an RMA for a second hand purchase? If I can't get the receipt am I unable to use that route at all? Nvidia told me "you should be able to get your receipt from Best Buy" so they are expecting it.
Alternatively I can go to eBay and see what they will do for me. They might make me whole via ebay Buyer Protection.
Advice welcome. I tried a lot of my own troubleshooting thinking this was a drivesoftware thing, but am open to anything worth trying if you think there i something I missed. Still pretty sure this is dead hardware, but fixing this leaves both me and the seller happy so I am fine with that.
submitted by STANAGs to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:12 celisuis Upgrade Suggestions

So, long story short, I feel the need to `upgrade` or rather `re-do` my home server setup, due to it being on standard `gaming` hardware rather than `server` hardware.
Current Specs
All this is currently running an unraid server where the HDDs are in an array with the SSDs in the cache pool. Running on this, we have
Put simply, I think I'm running out of cpu resources, with several cores pegging at 100%, Plex is having a hard time transcoding even one stream.
I'd be looking at a tower server rather than rack, is the T320 still the best price-performance for the UK? I'm not fussed about the downgrade to DDR3, as I don't think I run particularly RAM intensive tasks (other than Plex, but I'd assume it wouldn't be a huge hit), nor do I use a ram disk.
Along with moving to a tower server, I will be getting some more harddrives as well, hence the other reason for the move to new hardware.
I'm in the UK, and I'm thinking around £500 max for the tower itself (probably second hand from eBay).
submitted by celisuis to homelab [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 21:08 celisuis Upgrade Suggestions

So, long story short, I feel the need to `upgrade` or rather `re-do` my home server setup, due to it being on standard `gaming` hardware rather than `server` hardware.
Current Specs
All this is currently running an unraid server where the HDDs are in an array with the SSDs in the cache pool. Running on this, we have

Put simply, I think I'm running out of cpu resources, with several cores pegging at 100%, Plex is having a hard time transcoding even one stream.
I'd be looking at a tower server rather than rack, is the T320 still the best price-performance for the UK? I'm not fussed about the downgrade to DDR3, as I don't think I run particularly RAM intensive tasks (other than Plex, but I'd assume it wouldn't be a huge hit), nor do I use a ram disk.
Along with moving to a tower server, I will be getting some more harddrives as well, hence the other reason for the move to new hardware.
I'm in the UK, and I'm thinking around £500 max for the tower itself (probably second hand from eBay).

submitted by celisuis to HomeServer [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:59 lepip Advice before launching the Buy button

Im not sure what the best mobo to go for is, i dont have any specific requirements. Im reluctant to pick asus boards because of recent coverage on them. Apart from that, any suggestions welcome.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor £419.99 @ Ebuyer
CPU Cooler Deepcool AK620 ZERO DARK 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler £71.04 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard Gigabyte B650 GAMING X AX ATX AM5 Motherboard £189.98 @
Memory Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory £115.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive £132.00 @ Amazon UK
Storage Kingston NV2 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive £78.37 @ Box Limited
Video Card NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card £1585.00
Case Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case £170.31 @ NeoComputers
Power Supply Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply £152.99 @ AWD-IT
Monitor LG 27GP850-B 27.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor £397.00 @ Amazon UK
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total £3312.67
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-06-06 19:56 BST+0100
submitted by lepip to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:59 Wabeery How much would you charge for putting in a socket?

Not quite DIY but I’m in the middle of renovations and a lady in my building asked if she could hire me to put in a hidden socket behind her TV. This was after she had a look around and saw some sockets that I’d chased into the walls. I told her that the best course is to hire an electrician but she seemed pretty set on me and kept asking what was involved, how long it would take, and what my rate would be.
I’ll be honest I’m very tempted as I could use a bit of extra cash (this reno has, as excepted, gone pretty over budget). What do you guys think? If I was to take on the job would would you charge?
Edit: I’m going to make a smart decision for once in my life and not do it. Cheating on my own renovations was never in my blood. Back to my previous bad decision that was renovations.
submitted by Wabeery to DIYUK [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:58 General-Breadfruit44 Survived Dry Socket [UK] My experience

I recently had a wisdom tooth extraction on my lower left side which was impacted and wanted to share my personal experience & timeline!
Day 1: Got x-ray taken and oral surgeon explained the procedure and that it was low risk even though it super close to the nerve then the nurse explained the aftercare while I got numbed up. Extraction was painless and took just under 30mins but felt alot of cutting & pulling (tooth came out in four pieces!). I got two stitches then paid and went home. Anesthetic took around 4 hours to wear off and I took my first pain med 2 hours post surgery!
Day 2 - 3: Left side was very swollen but only had mild pain and taking pain meds every 4-6 hours
Day 4: Had intense pain that night and had to take double the pain meds to sleep (I should have realised something was maybe wrong at this point but kept convincing myself it was normal pain because I followed all the aftercare advice...)
Day 5: Taking pain meds every 4 hours on the dot to take the edge off. Also it was a long weekend so I thought I'd just bare with it :(
Day 6: Woke up with intense throbbing pain extending into my ears and can be felt in my jaw bone. At this point finally decided to call because I was anxious about taking this many pain meds (I rarely take meds) & it was distracting me from working. So they told me come in and she confirmed dry socket but no infection, then irrigated the hole, took out the stiches & packed it with a nasty tasting brown paste! Also felt a firm swelling just below the site/jaw area but she wasn't concerned
Day 7 - 9: No pain to minimal pain, only took 1 or 2 pain med a day
Day 10 - 13: minimal to moderate pain, only took 1 or 2 pain med a day
Day 14 (Today): Just some discomfort and finally feeling more comfortable in eating solid foods! Pain meds free! The firm swelling has gone down and barely there now. Also the hole is still visible but should close in 4-6 weeks!
I had read up a lot about dry socket prior and I think I basically convinced myself it wasn't it because I was expecting intense pain that couldn't be supressed by regular pain meds. But glad I went in because I felt so much better after and in the following days :)
What I learned
- try to stick to only clear liquids the first day
- whiteish stuff around the site is normal healing
- dissolving stitches have a soubitter taste I found? (so glad when she took them out)
- alternate between ibruprofen and paracetomol worked best for me
- pain meds give you dry mouth
- pain is supposed to lessen, if in doubt call in
submitted by General-Breadfruit44 to wisdomteeth [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:47 Jaximaus Looking to Spend $1.5k. Currently have Ryzen 9 5900x and 3090FE

Build Help/Ready:

Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do)
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.
Looking to build a gaming rig that will play FPS/RPG/MMORPGs. Also possibly use for VSim Racing/Flying.
If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)
Priority is frame rate with resolution a close second.
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
Looking to spend around $1.5k
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor Purchased For $0.00
CPU Cooler EK AIO Basic 240 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler -
Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard $279.00 @ Amazon
Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-4400 CL19 Memory $119.99 @ Newegg
Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $54.99 @ Amazon
Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $54.99 @ Amazon
Video Card NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 3090 24 GB Video Card -
Case NZXT H5 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case $94.99 @ Best Buy
Power Supply Corsair HX1200 Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $275.80 @ Amazon
Monitor LG 32GP850-B 32.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor $396.99 @ Abt
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $1276.75
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-06-06 14:46 EDT-0400
Provide any additional details you wish below.
Replace this text with your answer.
NOTE: You do not have to follow this format, but please be sure to answer these questions. Please do not ask to simply be given a build. You are welcome to delete this section.
submitted by Jaximaus to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:39 Captain_Auburn_Beard Should I buy SF6 on PC on my ps5? I know pc is better for FG communities, but idk if I should risk it with these specs. What do you guys think?(I have never bought a FG on pc before so idk how bad specs might affect online play).

Should I buy SF6 on PC on my ps5? I know pc is better for FG communities, but idk if I should risk it with these specs. What do you guys think?(I have never bought a FG on pc before so idk how bad specs might affect online play). submitted by Captain_Auburn_Beard to StreetFighter [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:32 maxiligamer PC cooling help

So I'm building a pc that has a Ryzen 7 5800X3D and a 6700 XT Dual GPU. I got a 240mm AIO for cooling. Well I tried to install the AIO and as it turns out the 6700 is quite a long boi so it didn't fit. I installed the radiator to the front but with only one fan pulling air thru it. As you can imagine the CPU is running quite hot, at 80°C with a 25% load to be exact.
The case has three fan slots in the front (can't use those because of the radiator), 2 on the top and one in the rear. My current setup is pulling air thru the rad with one fan in the front, and then the top ones and rear are exhaust. It's also not possible to install the radiator on the top. What would be the best fan setup?
I was kinda thinking of doing 2x intake from top and then rear and one exhaust thru the rad so would that be better?
submitted by maxiligamer to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 20:29 MrMadre Got this pc a while ago and through it was a good deal, was I wrong?

I've seen a lot of people saying you can get a PC 3x as good for half the price but I don't know where they get this from. Just the gpu is £100+ so how is this bad?
submitted by MrMadre to pchelp [link] [comments]