4th gen bumper 2nd gen dodge

I have 2nd gen AirPods (not pro) that I struggle to hear in when I’m in slightly loud environments, like in a train or walking in a busy road. But when I push them into my ears they sound so much better. Is there an accessory that pushes them in a little or maybe sim sort of rubber attachment that seals like earbuds?
Let me know you experience with these.

Expectations:
Before we dive into the details of building an ultra-low budget gaming PC, it's important to set expectations. Yes, this is a low-spec computer that won't be able to handle the most demanding games at maximum settings. However, for those on a tight budget who still want to enjoy PC gaming, this approach can deliver a solid experience. By getting creative with components and focusing on value, you can build a gaming PC that is capable of running most modern games at 1080p with medium settings and 60 frames per second, all for a fraction of the cost of a high-end gaming PC. So while some may criticize the specs of this build, remember that it's all about getting the most out of your budget and enjoying PC gaming without breaking the bank.
If you have a specific game in mind you want to play, check out its Steam page and view the minimum hardware requirements, if the game wants modern or powerful hardware, you probably won't have a great experience playing it on this computer. However, there are many, many games on Steam that have surprisingly low system requirements and can be enjoyed just the same on this computer.
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Step 1: The PC Itself
First, we're gonna start with a refurbished office PC. There are a few sites out there that do this, the one I'm familiar with is pcliquidations.com so I'll be using that as an example for the rest of this guide, you don't have to use that one you can choose whatever site you like- hell even ebay, facebook market place, or craiglist just be prepared for sellers not knowing the specs of the systems they are selling.
If you're using pcliquidations, just click desktops and then click all of these are requirements on the left sidebar. What we're looking for is a computer with at least the following specs:

• Price somewhere in the neighborhood of $120-180
• Form factor is NOT "Micro/Ultra Small"
• Intel i5-4XXX (4th gen i5, or AMD equivalent, used office PC's from this era are almost always Intel, a 4th gen i5 hits the sweet spot for having 4 physical cores that have decent single thread performance without breaking the bank, if you have more budget to spare you're better off putting towards the graphics card)
• 8GB RAM (DDR4 is preferred- but at this price point DDR3 is likely what you'll get, which isn't impressive by any means, but it'll get the job done for sure. Also, if you go DDR3, 16GB RAM kits are dirt cheap these days, like $25 usually)
• 256GB SSD (pcliquidations usually puts these in their refurb computers already, watch out for the 128GB SSD's, that doesn't leave much room for games)
• One PCI Express 3.0 x16 slot (Some of the listings don't specify what generation the PCIe slot is, so you may have to google the computer model, find the manual or spec page, and see if it is PCIe Gen 3.0)

When checking out the computer's listing on pcliquidations make sure that the option to add a video card is there on the right side of the page and that "XFX Radeon 6400 4GB" is an option to add BUT DON'T ADD IT. They want $200 for the RX 6400, but it's on amazon for $145. This basically just ensures that the case will actually fit a low-profile graphics card and that the motherboard actually has a PCIe x16 slot.
When it comes to building PC's, this knocks out case, motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Operating System, and storage for $120-180, not bad all things considered. In this current state, it's simply just a decent running computer for regular usage. But, we're here for gaming so onto the next step:
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Step 2: The Graphics Card
Now that we have a PC that fits most of the minimum requirements for gaming, we just need something to handle the graphical part of gaming, which is most of the workload anyway. What we're going to be looking for is a graphics card that handles 1080p decently, DOES NOT require external power connectors, and for the low-profile refurbished computers that flood the refurb market, it probably also must be "low-profile."
The vast majority of refurb office desktops are small form factor, if you want to have more options for a graphics card, get a desktop that is not small form factor, make sure that "SFF" does NOT appear in the title of the listing on pcliquidations, just keep in mind this limits your options for a desktop.
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1. AMD Radeon RX 6400 - Now I know a lot of people aren't going to like this option, but it is a modern graphics card released in Q1 2022. The benefits of this card are that it is sips on power at 53W maximum, which is great for the power supply that comes included with most refurb office PC's. We put this graphics card in the computer my little brother inherited from grandma, and honestly I'm not disappointed, he plays 1080p medium settings and it's totally playable. In some areas it may not get 60fps, might dip more towards 45-50fps, but it's still totally playable. The XFX Speedster RX 6400 is also low-profile and comes with a mounting bracket for low-profile cases, this is advantageous for most of the refurb office PC's out there because it can actually fit in them. On amazon it's $145 right now.
2. NVIDIA GTX 1650 (USED) - This is one that get recommended a lot, but prices are all over the place in the used market. On eBay, some are listed for $200, some are listed for $70, all coming from sellers with no ratings to sellers with lots of ratings. If you're willing to go the used route, this may also be a good option depending on pricing. This card also comes in a low-profile form, but from what I can find, it seems like the low-profile versions aren't as common.
3. NVIDIA GTX 1050 Ti (USED) - Basically the same situation as the GTX 1650 BUT it is an older card and it is out performed by both of the cards listed previously. If you're straining your budget and find one of these at a good deal, it may prove to be worth it, some games you may have to lower the resolution to 1600x900 or turn the graphics settings down to low, or both.
4. Other - If neither of the cards you find here are at good prices or you just want something else, do some research, look at benchmarks of other cards, see if they come in low-profile variants if you need it, and make sure they don't require an external power connector (6pin, 6+2pin, etc.)

If you have some extra padding to your budget, you're willing to go elbow-deep in a PC case plugging in things, AND you got a non-small form factor desktop, this is where some more options open up to you. You can upgrade the power supply and get a nicer graphics card. We're not going to go deep into deal here, but this can open the door to 1080p High-Max settings, or even 1440p Low-Medium settings, depending.
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Step 3: Install The Graphics Card
You've ordered the PC, the graphics card of your choice, received them, and you're ready to game. Turn off the PC, unplug the power cord, open up the side panel of the case, hold the graphics card in such a way you don't touch any of the little components on the board or the gold connectors, and insert it into the PCIe x16 slot closest to the CPU. In some cases you may have to literally break off the part of the case that blocks the output of the graphics card, but they're designed to do this. Screw the mounting bracket into place on the slot in the back of the case. In some rare cases the slot closest to the CPU might not be the x16 slot, if you want to be really sure read the manual for the computemotherboard and find which one is the x16 slot, 99% of the time it is the one closest to the CPU.
Make sure when you plug in your monitor, you plug the HDMI or DisplayPort cable into the graphics card itself, NOT the motherboard. Now, go to the manufacturer's website (NVIDIA or AMD) and install the drivers for the card. It'll usually download an exe file, run the exe file, wait for it to do its thing, and you're ready to game.
Step 4: Upgrades and The Future
A few cheap upgrades could include upgrading to 16GB of RAM, make sure it is DDR3 or DDR4, which ever is in your system. Add another SSD for more storage for your games, 1TB SATA SSD's are fairly cheap these days, $45-50, and will allow you to store many more games if you have them, just make sure you have the SATA power cable (usually there are extra power connectors along the ribbon already going into your current SSD), a standard SATA cable, there might be more in the computer itself, and that you have an available SATA port on the motherboard, refer to the motherboard's manual to make sure that the one you plug it into operates at full speed.
A medium-upgrade would be upgrading the power supply and the graphics card, which I glossed over just before Step 3. Ultimately, for any "major" upgrade, this machine will not be "future proof" in many ways, if your sights are higher and your budget is higher in the future, you're better off building a modern computer from scratch down the road.
Step 5: Game
When purchasing games on Steam, make sure to review the minimum hardware requirements on its store page. There are a vast amount of games that this computer will handle just fine, but some modern or poorly optimized games won't perform well at all, or may even be unplayable (I wouldn't try to play Cyberpunk 2077 on this machine...)
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TL;DR - Buy a refurb office PC with decent specs, slap a budget graphics card into it, 1080p game. For more detail, read the post lol.

Hey all, I'm a samsung guy, and I need to be in an imessage group chat. I was wondering if I bought an Ipod 4 for really cheap, would I be able to be in an imessage group chat with a bunch of current up to date iphones? If not, what's my cheapest option. (I have no apple devices and have already looked into emulating, just too much work for me but I'll do it if I have to)
Thanks!

There is lot confusion among pep users regarding testing. Below is your answers:
Pep is warranted in two types of exposures:

1. Occupational (In healthcare such as needlestick injury)
   
2. Non-occupational (sexual exposures)
   

(Updated on 2016) For occupational exposures, cdc offical guidelines suggest a final test at 4 month post exposure (3 month post pep) only with a 4th gen lab test. If 4th gen lab test is not available, a test at 6 month post exposure is again needed. If there is coinfection of hepatitis C than an additional test at 12 months is required.
(Updated on 2016) For sexual exposures, uk guidelines states that a test at 6 week post pep (10 week post exposure) is a final test with a 4th gen lab test. CDC guidelines stated that a final test is required at 3 month post exposure. In case of hepatitis C coinfection an additional test at 6 month post exposure is needed .
CDC and experts strictly do not recommends test through oral saliva fluids for people who had pep. A 4th gen lab test is the most recommended test for pep users.

So I've been looking around, and I know that there have been some reviews that have suggested anything crazy like a 4090 or a 7900xtx would get bottled necked with these newer 13th gen and new AMD laptops.
I remember that with thunderbolt 3, some laptop manufactures might not give you everything to do e-GPU. With 4th gen, do I need to worry about this?
I was thinking of getting a laptop with a 4060 for the road and then an e-GPU at home hooked up to a 1440p 240hz monitor.

Level design:
-Poseidon is visually interesting but kinda boring, and there aren't a lot of places where you have to swim. The swimming mechanics are not as important and fun as the trailer made them seem.
-Ted Farrow's lair was giant exposition fest. It's not bad I guess, but a little over the top, and pace breaking.
-The ending was abrupt and unsatisfying.
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General combat:
-You can't un-crouch for a small amount of time after a slide or jump after a slide which makes the combat feel a little sluggish.
-Both the dodge and jump slowdown got huge nerfs. I can understand the jump slowdown getting nerfed, because they buffed the slowdown ability, but not the dodge. Not only did they add end-lag on every third dodge, they also removed the long dodge. So not only is the dodge worse, in a game with more aggressive enemies, you also can't use it as much.
-There are too many area of effect attacks that are either undodgeable and/or force you to run away for an extended period of time (elemental clawstriders, fireclaws, and shellsnapers come to mind).
-I rarely use valor surges, because I don't like relying on things I don't consistently have access to, and if I ever want to switch them out, I have to pause the game and select it from the skill tree. I wish there was a valor surge wheel, and that they recharged by doing perfect dodges/slides or when engaging a new group of enemies.
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Ranged combat:
-The gyro aim feels inconsistent compared to other games that have gyro aim like TLOU2, Fortnite, and Days Gone.
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-I hate the trigger effects for bow weapons. Astro's Playroom has better trigger feedback for it's bow, and you only use it for one level? Instead of adapting the bow mechanics to the adaptive triggers like the bow in Astro's Playroom, they just added scripted feedback to it, which makes it feel more like rumble than a next gen feature.
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-Turning off weapon wheel slowdown doesn't also decrease the amount of time it takes to craft ammo.
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-You can't adjust aim sensitivity and look sensitivity separately, so you can't have a fast sensitivity for selecting targets and maneuvering attacks and obstacles, and a slow sensitivity for aiming shots.
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Melee combat:
-Human enemies, and some of the machine enemies, have too much tracking on melee attacks.
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-There is no counter, despite Aloy having a shield and human enemies being able to counter Aloy, even without a shield.
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-Block breaker, half moon slash, jump attack, power attack, and resonator blast will destroy every human melee type. The other attacks are situational (spinning scythe and energy surge) or almost useless because of how long they take to use (the destroyer and nora warrior).
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Navigation/UI:
-The climbing is really clunky and slow. Uncharted 2 had better climbing than this. Horizon Zero Dawn's climbing was simple, but at least it worked consistently and we didn't have to do it as much.

Looking on eBay I found a whole lot of never-seen-by-me-before 190mm touring car bodies. Some look like they could be pretty nice, others look just OK. Has anyone here seen or tried these bodies? There are some really cool unique models I’ve never seen in RC form before and are awfully tempting. Prices seem a little high on some, but for those looking for a specific vehicle, it may be worth it. Here are a few links for some:
BMW E30 M3
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125803397574?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MLp9nB1gRPm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pmRoc4vXT_e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
2nd gen Honda NSX:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255719960891?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=71pY5lbYTnm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pmRoc4vXT_e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
BMW M8 GTE:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165664262353?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Q61MVGh2TKS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pmRoc4vXT_e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Dodge Challenger SRT8:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154937668947?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Q61MVGh2TKS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pmRoc4vXT_e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I havent had a desktop in 5 years, my last one, my PSU destroyed(i7 4th gen and 1050ti build).
Now im building a new one! However It seems like the market is in a transition phase with DDR5.
I was going to go for a ryzen 5700x but im a bit hesitant because my upgrade path will be stunted by this decision compared to if I get an intel 12400f with a ddr5 board and ram combo.
Im also pairing this with a 3060 ti, if I go with the ddr4 route ill get 32gb and 16gb for ddr5.
My budget is around 1800 usd.
Why not Raptor Lake you might ask, as of writing this 13th gen intel cpus and boards are instantly out of stock(afaik) in my country.
I live in the Philippines, if you’re also from here any tips or suggestions for vendors/shops would be appreciated! As I am not as in touch with the marketplace anymore compared to 5 years ago. :))

Hey all! Recently I plunged for 2nd gen AirPod Pros from Amazon Warehouse ($150!) and while they’re fantastic, I can’t buy AppleCare online, since it’s been 60 days since the last person first activated it.
I tried chatting with support but they were really insistent that it couldn’t happen.
I read online though that after 60 days, one could bring their device into an Apple Store for a “AppleCare+ Screening”, and as long as it was in working order, they can buy AppleCare+ in store.
Has anyone ever had success with this with AirPods or even at all or is this a myth?

i currently have the ipad mini 6th gen and i’ve recently started taking notes on it but it feels tiny for notes. i want to get a bigger ipad but don’t wanna pay SO much for it so is the (apple refurbished) 2nd gen ipad pro still worth it?

I've found a very low mileage '17 Fiesta ST with recaro package in excellent condition but the price is in the neighborhood of used 4th gen Mazda3's.
Assuming mileage and price are roughly the same, which would you choose and why?
I'm interested in the small car with a stick segment. It doesn't necessarily have to be a "hot hatch". I've eyed the Fiesta STs for years but when I was able to afford one, they discontinued them.

I want to start upgrading my 3rd gen tacoma with a 3 inch suspension lift. I don’t want to spend more than $2000 on the kit, but want something that is built to last. Currently I have no added weight on my truck but I intend on putting on a steel front bumper down the road and am planning on adding more too. When I look at certain lift kits I see the option to go with heavy duty or medium. I would like to get heavy duty, and skip putting in add-a-leafs until I get my front bumper. I am wondering if the heavy duty springs will actually make the car handle worse without the added weight if I skip the add a leafs. Any and all helpful information is greatly appreciated. I would like to know some suggestions on 3” lift kits, and information on control arms, and anything else you can provide. thank you

Hi, so I will start from the beginning, so here we go. I grew up around race cars and cars because my dad raced a drag car and was a fabricator. He had his own business where he would work on or build basically any type of car, mostly drag cars. So I grew up pretty hands-on with being around this stuff and being interested in what he was doing and just cars in general. He taught me a lot about cars and, how to use a lot of different tools, machines(like a mill, lathe, etc.), and how to mig/tig weld.
So from this, in middle school, I wanted to become a mechanic, but my parents pushed away from this and pushed me toward being an engineer. Which I was ok with it when they told me what they do, and as a kid and still now, I've always liked taking stuff apart and figuring out how they work. So in high school, I took an engineering class and really enjoyed it, so I took it every year. At the beginning of my sophomore year, I got my driver's license and got a job a couple of months later. Then at the end of that year, covid hit, and we went online. When we came back, I just didn't enjoy school as much and cheated on a lot of stuff because I didn't want to study or do homework.
During this time, I had a job that I made decent money at and liked it. I got to the point where I could buy my first car, which was a 4th gen firebird with a v8 and a 6-speed manual. I loved driving this car, I would take it out for hours just to cruise around. As I got more comfortable with it, I started pushing harder, taking corners faster, and shifting faster. So I did research and learned how to corner properly, and I just came to love that feeling of going fast and taking corners hard.
I barely tried at school during my senior year and did the bare minimum. I liked working, so I worked a lot, almost 40 hours a week, on top of attending high school. I found a college I really liked and got into it. I picked it because they do co-ops. You go to school for a few months, then work at a job that correlates with your major for a few months, then go back to school, then back to work. So at this point, Im finishing up my freshman year at college and just don't want to do school anymore. I still like engineering but just don't know what to do.
My passion is race cars, and wanting to be a race car driver(road course stuff, ie, like the IMSA). But at this point, I think it's too late to try and start that as a career, being that I do not have the finances to do so, and neither do my parents. So I’m not sure what to do. I could try and stick with school and get my degree and hopefully do racing as a hobby, drop out of college, and go to trade school to be a fabricator(But I do not want to work my whole life, as my parents pushed me away from this stuff because of my dad), or try to find some way to start a racing career which is pretty slim. So I just need some different advice.

none of us know what’s going on inside the admissions room. i think we’re just speculating. anyways i got rejected from tufts, along with amherst, swarthmore, and JHU. here’s my profile:
Demographics
• Gender: Male
• Race/Ethnicity: Turkish
• Income Bracket: Didn’t apply for aid
• Type of School: Private,
• Hooks (Recruited Athlete, URM, First-Gen, Geographic, Legacy, etc.): None
Intended Major(s): International Relations, Sociology
Academics • GPA (UW/W): 93.5/100 (upwards trend tho, explained the dip in the 9th grade)
•Full IB Diploma
• Senior Year Course Load: A couple of regional classes (IB ends in the junior year)
Standardized Testing
TEST OPTIONAAAAAAAAL
• AP/IB: IB score of 42/45, 777 in HLs
• IELTS 7.5- Duolingo 140/160
Extracurriculars/Activities
List all extracurricular involvements, including leadership roles, time commitments, major achievements, etc.

1. Harvard Crimson Internship. Only offered to 8 people globally as I was one of the global winners of the competition. I wrote sponsored articles etc.
   
2. Peer-reviewed publication in an international journal (no co-author, just me) and became the youngest author of the journal at the age of 17. Five hundred people have downloaded my article so far.
   
3. Researched with an NYU professor, wrote a 27-page thesis, and received a grade A from the Pioneer Research Program (it was Oberlin accredited, so I gained two college credits).
   
4. Researched with a Dartmouth professor and published 19 pages-long research about international migration.
   
5. Yale Young Global Scholars
   
6. King's College Summer School student ambassador (received training from professors and assisted them in the lessons and helped my peers on how to access resources & how to utilize them)
   
7. I created my initiative, created three nationwide workshops, and got 300 people involved in these workshops.
   
8. I opened up my own club at school and put together three nation-based conferences hosting acclaimed academics.
   
9. I became one of the two EYP (European Youth Parliament) School representatives- I managed the annual event and hosted other schools in my country.
   
10. I was the Global Issues Network club president (I created an anti-bullying project and was invited to Luxembourg to present it)
    

Awards:

1. The Harvard Crimson Essay Competition- Global Winner (essay is published, and I appeared on National TV & newspapers)
   
2. King's College London Summer School Merit Based scholarship (only offered to 2 people that year)
   
3. Global Social Leaders Global Finalist & collaboration award
   
4. Nation-based project competition ranked
   
5. International Basic Sciences Olympiad (2nd place & Finalist)
   

Letters of Recommendation DIDNT WAIVE FERPA ACCIDENTALLY LMAOO
I think my teacher letters are really good because they both showed some specific instances of me showing leadership and other traits that make me stand out as a student and my positive contribution to the classroom. So 9/10. HOWEVER, not waiving FERPA on accident fs everything up.
My first optional recommender is my professor from NYU, who described our research, my strong parts, and my weaknesses. The second one is the Harvard Crimson's student editor (his letter is a bit generic, though). So additional LORs: 9/10.
Essays:
Personal statement is 8/10, supps 7.5/10
Interview:
I only had one?? It was Cornell and it went amazing 9/10.
Decisions (indicate ED/EA/REA/SCEA/RD)
Acceptances:
-Oberlin College (RD)
Waitlists:
-Pomona College (RD)
Rejections:
-Johns Hopkins (RD)
-Amherst College (RD)
-Swarthmore College (RD)
-tufts (RD)
Awaiting
-All the ivies except Yale (didnt apply)
-Duke
-Northwestern
-NYU
-Vanderbilt

Picked up a mint condition OUYA controller for 5 bucks a few weeks back out of sheer curiosity. Had to jump through hoops to do anything with it in Windows.
Fast forward to today when Luna became available in Canada. Paired the OUYA controller with my 2nd gen FireTV Cube. It actually detected and paired it as an 'Amazon Fire TV Controller' and it works perfectly so far in Luna. I tried a few of the free with Prime games and it works well.
Edit: Just noticed the touchpad works as a mouse on the FireTV as well.

Hello hws, have some more stuff to sell today.
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Item	Description	Price	Timestamp
i7-6700 ITX Combo	i7-6700 + 2x16 DDR4 = ASrock H110-ITX. Perfect working condition.	$160 Shipped	https://imgur.com/a/y9dE6fo
i7-4770	Pulled from working PC.	$40 Shipped	https://imgur.com/a/l77PZIU
3x i7-3770S	All pulled from working PC's	$35 Shipped	https://imgur.com/a/l77PZIU
All 3rd/4th gen i7's	Buy them all so I don't have to deal with shipping individually and I'll include a free Core 2 Quad!	$120 Shipped	https://imgur.com/a/l77PZIU
Seasonic GX-650 NO CABLES	Bought this and it came with no cables. Have no idea if it works. Ok condition otherwise	$25 + Shipping? IDK	https://imgur.com/a/kXCfRSg
8x 40mm Delta/AVC Fans	Pulled from working PC's. Standard 4pin fan connector.	$35? + Shipping? OBO	https://imgur.com/a/MctiEIm

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Also open to trading for an i7-5775c or other interesting hardware. Please feel free to ask any questions. Thanks.

I come from an LE2 2nd Gen Chevy Cruze FBO and went from 153hp stock close to 280-290 once that reached its peak stock block. I currently now drive a 2023 Altima SR AWD, is there any lowering springs or any engine mods yet for these things?

Should I go for MT optiplex but lower spec ( i5 4th gen,4gb ram, 500gb hdd ) or SFF optiplex but with a better hardware ( i7 2nd gen or i7 3rd gen,8gb ram, 120gb ssd, 500gb hhd) ?